GAEL ARTHUR
reports on
FEASTING
IN THE CARIBBEAN. ©
Great food is not the first thing most people think of when they think of a Caribbean vacation, but the people at the Almond Resorts are looking to change that. Almond – it’s a name that is well-known in Barbados and one that is starting to make its name elsewhere – with a newly opened resort at Morgan Bay in St. Lucia, the chain of luxury all-inclusive resorts is expanding in its carefully identified niche. The niche?
People who want an all-inclusive beach vacation, but don’t want to be faced with huge buffets every meal. They are looking for quality food, with table service, where someone asks you what you want, then delivers it to you. Simply put, quality food, served in proper restaurant style.
Every June, Caribbean cooking maven Dr. Jessica Davis works magic, bringing together a crew of guest chefs famous in their own right for Caribbean cuisine. Together with Almond’s consultant chef, Robert Olivier, they create a festive scene to showcase some of the best food the islands have to offer. The hardest part is not eating, and finding enough time to get some exercise between meals. In fairness, playing in the shallow warm sea is not enough to burn off the calories from the first rum punch of the day, let alone the feasting.
Twice a week at Almond. Sophia Beckles or one of her cohorts runs a cooking class. Ours starts off with a hot sauce tasting seminar. Turns out the best thing to cleanse one’s palate between sauces is the island’s famous rum punch. It’s a drink that grows on you,
Sophia has a full agenda, with soup and flying fish on the agenda. Everyone is interested in her recipe for Bajan seasoning and we dutifully copy down her recipe, only briefly wondering about scaling down a recipe that calls for four tablespoons of ground cloves. And 8 tablespoons of curry powder.
Most of us decide the easier thing to do is buy the pre-packaged marinade at the grocery store.
I trip to the grocery store offers a variety of products that will form the basis of a Caribbean dinner back home. Once we figure out what everyone likes, then it will be a matter of sourcing the ingredients at home (Bajans are an adventuresome lot, and Bajan foods are easier to find that you would think).
The Almond Group hotels take a serious approach to the food they offer at their all-inclusive luxury resorts. With a third hotel in St. Lucia, at Morgan Bay, Almond is reaping some unexpected benefits.
Robert Olivier, consulting chef for the group, was charged with designing and setting up the restaurants at the new property. “When I first went to St. Lucia, I was surprised that all the foods were supplied from Miami.”
“St. Lucia has an incredible collection of small family farms that have been operating for six generations – since the freed slaves were granted plots of land. There is so much opportunity there for fresh and interesting.”
Olivier has been spending a lot of time there, working with individual farmers to identify the crops that will ultimately serve as a garden for the whole Almond chain. “We can pay more, and provide input as to what makes the most sense.” Olivier also feels a sense of responsibility to help the farmers preserve the heritage and stay organic.
Winning dish from staff competition,
Almond Resorts, Barbados
Up until now, they haven’t had the money to purchase fertilizers – Olivier wants to make sure that the prospect of guaranteed income for specialty products doesn’t change the quality. He is in a unique position – with three properties to supply and a passion for local Caribbean food, he can reward quality and variety.Back home, as I review my notes from Sophia’s cooking class and wonder where I will ever find eddoes, tannia or dasheen, let alone falurnum or soursop. Then I find the perfect recipe – I can find ALL the ingredients and the method is a as simple as it gets. All I have to do is some math to cut back the quantities. This recipe, from the cookbook “Enid’s Favourite Recipes, Enid’s At Almond Cooking Book”, makes four cups.
Spicy Rub MixThis is our version of a blackening rub that is used on fish, chicken, meats and even vegetables. We coat the fish with a little olive oil, rub in the spicy mix and sear on a griddle for a crusty coating that seals in the juices.
Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups paprika
3/4 cup turmeric
1/4 cup salt
1/4 cup onion powder
1/4 cup garlic powder
! tablespoon cayenne or chilli powder
1/4 cup black pepper
1/4 cup white pepper
1/4 cup dried thyme
1/4 cup dried marjoram or oreganoMethod:
1. Place all ingredients into a dry glass storage bottle, close tightly and shake till well combined.
2. This rub will keep for months, shake bottle before using.Report & pictures by Gael Arthur ©
