DOING EDINBURGH.©

I don't know about you,
but it takes a visitor arriving
to make me discover
just what's been happening
in my own back yard.

 

My friends from the States arrived in Scotland on the first train from London intent on 'doing' Edinburgh before their last train back at 7 pm. Longer time could not be spared as they were flying back to the US from Gatwick at 6 am the next day.

The rail company succeeded in bringing the train in early but I managed to find them before they got swept too far into melee of tourists and tartan vendors that passes for normal life in the streets of Edinburgh. It being winter, the pipers on the corners had gone, long since laying down their drones to spend their bawbees soaking up the sun in the Canary Islands.

It was a dreech cold day and I immediately warmed to Jean who, having spent all her life in constant Arizona sunshine declared it "marvellous" and wanted to "have it like this every day." "Oh no you wouldn't," I assured her as she pointed her camera though the mirk at the Scott Monument.

The steps to the top were closed. This was a blessing bearing in mind our tight time schedule and my tight waistband.

The Georgian House at Charlotte Square was also closed, that ranks as a 'must' on the summer list; instead, we made the steep walk up The Mound towards the Castle.

It was too dull to use the Camera Obscura, a Victorian tourist draw.

It first appeared on the city skyline in 1850, so I told them how it projected live images of the city and that you could see for miles around and pick up images of the buses on Princes Street on the palm of your hand.

Instead, we went across the road to The Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre at the entrance to the Castle Esplanade.

There we travelled through the 'history of whisky' on a wee railway that carries you seated in whisky casks. It's all very well done and includes an excellent film and a meeting with “The Blenders Ghost”.

There was also a chance to sniff some of the malt and grain whiskies used. At the end of the tour we were given a glass to sample before we exited into a shop full of whisky.

It was a veritable "McAlladin's Cave" with many blends and single malts normally only sold overseas.

Suitably fortified we headed up to the Castle, arriving just as the one o'clock gun was being fired. My guests almost jumped out of their skins and I checked my watch.

They were impressed by the exhibition that leads you into the display of the Scottish Crown Jewels, hoovering up the facts and figures about how the Jewels were hidden and smuggled out of Dunotter Castle before thier last offical use for the coronation of Charles the Second in 1651.

When we left, our heads were full but the tummies were banging on empty so we descended to the Grassmarket to refuel with a pub lunch, enjoying the flattery of a short sighted barman asking if student rates applied. The sun broke through briefly as we stepped out into the Grassmarket - with its cobbles and trees, it looked just like a corner of Paris. Then it was up to the Royal Mile to hop on one of the double decker tour buses.

These guided tours are definitely the best way to start a visit to any city. As we passed Deacon Brodie's Tavern, my friends learned about the double life of the 18th century city councillor who inspired Stephenson's Dr. Jekell and Mr. Hyde.

They peered, intrigued, down the tightly packed closes and steep lanes. Time was pressing so we had to pass up the chance of hopping off the bus to visit the excellent Museum of Childhood and the Peoples' Story in the Cannongate.

There are a number of companies operating these open top busses and the tours leave from outside the Waverly Railway Station, with frequent opportunities to jump off and visit an attraction. The prices and routes vary. On the “The Edinburgh Tour” bus the cost is £9.00 (valid for 24 hours) or you can pay extra and include a visit to The Royal Yacht Britannia. (regular bus services 22, 34, 35 & 49 from city centre)

Britannia is moored outside the Ocean Terminal, a new shopping complex at Leith - a self-led audio tour guides you though the ship's 5 decks.

The glittering state rooms and the "on-deck cabin" where the Rolls Royce is stored both left me feeling that my lifestyle had room for improvement.

Hopping back on to the double decker tour bus, Holyrood Palace was firmly set in the sights of twosome from Tucson. They were not disappointed and neither was I. We gazed on double beds fit for Kings and trod long red carpeted rooms, “ooh'd “and “ah'd” at the splendour of the State Apartments and shuddered appropriately in the dingy room where Mary Queen of Scot's lover, Rizzio, was stabbed 56 times.

With the crowded day almost over we picked up my car and drove up to the top of Calton Hill to stand in the gathering dusk beside the Nelson Monument and watch the lights twinkling below in Princes Street.

I thought it seemed a fitting end to ask what was known about Edinburgh in Arizona... They replied, "Well they say that you can get a drink in Rose Street."

Rose Street! With a pub every few yards for almost a mile! That could be a whole different tour. I'm still wondering if I took them on the right one.

INFORMATION:

The Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre: http://www.whisky-heritage.co.uk Tel: 0131 220 6288
Edinburgh Castle: http://www.historic-scotland.gov.uk
The Camera Obscura: http://www.camera-obscura.co.uk
Royal Yacht Britannia http://www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk Tel: 0131 555 5566
Rose Street pubs:http://www.edinburgh.pubs.freeuk.com/rosent.html
Good Accommodation http://www.thehedgesguesthouse.com/

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