DRIFTING INTHE DORDOGNE.
This part of France, with its remote valleys, pretty much went to sleep for a hundred and fifty years until roads gave access to places that previously were reached only by river or rail.
It seemed a totally different world when, leaving the motorways, we slipped off into the quiet leafy byways, the maze of roads that covered the Dordogne.
Here were buildings that must have been old when Shakespeare was a lad.This part of France with its remote valleys pretty much went to sleep for a hundred and fifty years until roads gave access to places that previously were reached by river or rail.
So in towns like Montinac you find crumbling building with lofty balconies fit for Juliet and Romeo or even Rumplestilskin and Rupunzel (had the latter let down her hair, one tug on it, and both she and the balcony, would have come tumbling after.
The appearance of the ancient tiled roofs and the winding lanes is charming You really do feel immersed in history. Outside the little towns the heavily wooded hills reminded me of certain parts of my native Argyll in Scotland, but with the heat switched on!
The valleys lead down to rivers and there are many places where you can rent canoes.The castles and chateaux that dramatically overhang the river are best seen from the water.
"Canoe-Kayak Les 7 Rives” have their base at Montinac in an old hydro electric powerhouse that dates back to the turn of the last century. Using their Canadian style canoes you can choose between a variety of leisurely descents the River La Vezeere.
An hour and an half will take you to down the 8 km to Thornac,
2 ½ hrs to Saint–Leon of 3 to 4 hours will have you exploring 6 km to La Rogue Saint-Christopher.
A mini bus gathers you and other canoeists and brings you back to the base. Pick up points are always at a bridge so you should have no difficulty in spotting you landing place
The water is safe. It is a very quiet river and there are no rapids so you just relax and watch the castles as you drift by.Chateau Le Poy Robert and at Thonac Chateau de Losse on the rocks Its a great experience and cameras can be taken along safely in waterproof containers.
A visit to The Grotte de Lasacuax to see the famous prehistoric cave paintings is a 'must'
You are probably familiar with four or five of the images of bison, deer, stubby horses. What was surprising was the sheer quantity of animals that were depicted painted across the roof of the cave.
To protect the original paintings what you see now is a clever and exact replica of the spectacular work. The commentary is in French but all should enjoy the experience.
The great thing is to get one of the Michelin local maps and find yourself in the little roads that criss-cross the green valleys. We followed these quiet roads. The little D65 took us from the caves of Lascaux (near Montinac) and ran close to the river La Vérère .
Along the way we stopped to admire Chateau Losse across the water and visited Sereac.Were lucky enough to take an even smaller road that led us up to the Auberge de Castle-Merele. There we had lunch on a terrace with a superb panoramic view. The lunch, a six course meal for two with half a carafe of the local rosé was exceptional and our first experience of Périgord cuisine.
‘La Bouquerie’
We stayed near the little hamlet of St Geniès at the Camping La Bouquerie where the owner ou seems to personally welcome everyone and walks around with them to help them select the pitch which is best for them, pointing out which will have shade and which will not.
This attention and the fact that there is a swimming pool and other excellent facilities perhaps account for it being a Michelin award winning site and consistently rated as a top site with Canvas holidays and Eurocamp who have a number of ready erected tents and mobile homes.
The ancient stone buildings that have been lovingly restored and converted to a bar and terrace were formerly a farm and known to the locals as ‘La Bouquerie’ - a place where they keep the billy and nanny goats.
For us it was a happy experience and we decided to give our trailer tent and ourselves a bit of a rest and booked one of the Mobile homes.
Report by Allan Rogers
FACT FILE
Camping - Caravanning
La Bouquerie: http://www.labouquerie.com/Canoeing:
www.canoe-france.com
Copeyre Canoe- Email: canoe@mail.netsouce.fr
