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Spring
2008 Edition 45. |
WORLDROVER
GUIDES
Towns & Nude Beaches
Seychelles
paradise
& powdered sand.
The
Seychelles in the middle of the Indian
Ocean are a thousand miles from anywhere but about as close to paradise
as you are likely to get on any holiday.
After a spectacular landing in which the plane skimmed over a necklace of
islands I followed a young couple down the aircraft steps.
They were about to have a wedding. Back
home the roads had been icy, ‘as smooth as a bottle’ but there, the sun
was brilliant and the temperature... 86F.
With the waves crashing in and the birds crying overhead they agreed
that it was just the
place for their special event.
The main island is Mahe. Not
big, but very mountainous with
the hills covered by trees, and what trees, Banana,
Palm, Giant Bougainvillea.
There was luxuriant growth it seemed like the sort of place you could plant
a walking stick and it would growth.
We
hired a Mini Moke and followed twisting roads driving past little green
tin sheds with corrugated roofs that turn out to be shops.
A bare footed local padded homewards, wearing a red baseball cap and carrying
a couple of fish dangling from a string on his finger. Suddenly supermarket shopping seemed a long way away!
Round another corner we came to a school yard where
children in bright uniforms played in the sun. On the other side of the
road surf crashed in on the sand.
There are 68 palm fringed beaches on the main island
of Mahe, and on most it would be hard to take a bad photograph.
Some hotels have their own, at the Plantation
Club you step out on to 'Val Meh
beach’, the Berjaya Mahe Beach
Hotel even has it’s own little off shore island, there's The
Coral Strand on Beau Vallon Bay
where you can watch magnificent sunsets over Silhouette Island.
If you want a meal with a view, drive
up to The Islander Restaurant.
We had come out to the main island of Mahe on Air
Seychelles's Boeing 767, but if that's the whale of their fleet, the very
busy minnows are the little 20 seat Twin Otter planes that dart back and forth to the smaller
islands. No sooner are you in the air, it seems,
than the plane banks and you swoop down to touch down amid another
set of coconut palms.
By plane it takes only minutes to reach Praslin, by boat it's two hours. It's hinted that a prehistoric forest there may have been the original Garden of Eden.
As you wander through it, you begin to believe it. Colourful birds flit through the trees and if you snorkel a few yards out from where the waves wash in on the powdery sand curious fish wait to greet you.
We continued our island hopping by crossing the blue water to La Digue. We sailed over by schooner.
Salt spray occasionally bashed across the bow, a welcome addition in that hot sun to the cooling breeze.
The sail was stowed and we entered harbour. Beyond
the children diving from the pier a line of oxcarts waited and I climbed
on to one, joining a young lady who's shirt bore the legend 'Your guide
in Paradise'.
I asked her name. “Herah” she said.
“Herah?” I echoed.
“Yes, Here ah Come.”
She said with a straight face but I think my leg was being pulled.
Some consider La Digue to be
the most beautiful of the islands. There are formations of granite boulders
and giant tortoise munch their way through the ferns.

When you are not relaxing on the beach there are a number of excursions you can take.
I tried the excitement of deep sea fishing and battled with a king fish and I also made a friendly visit to view the fish at the St. Anne Marine National Park. You travel out in a glass-bottomed boat.
Put a handful of bread crumbs over the side and the sea around you will seem to be boiling with fish.
Later you can dive in and feed them by hand, but watch out for over enthusiastic nibblers.
On the way out I spotted an island and thought it would be a great place to live, but it turned out to inhabited. It was the Seychelles prison, possibly the most beautiful nick in the world. But there were other islands beckoning.
Frigate Island lies 35 miles from Mahe. It's
surrounded completely by a reef and is only l¼ miles long by a mile wide.
You can swim amid beautiful coral or take a walk around and be introduced
to the wildlife, like the rare Magpie Robin.
There was so much to photograph and at one
point on the walkabout I was aiming my camera at a brightly coloured bird
in a banyan tree when I almost fell backwards over a giant tortoise.
He lumbered back into the shade no doubt to brood over it for a couple of years and I scuttled on to catch up with the rest of the party who had found some very old graves reputed to have belonged to pirates. Who ever lay there I don't suppose they could have chosen a better place to end their days.
There are many so beautiful places on the islands
that you'll find making the choice of hotel very difficult. For example, if you want it really quiet,
consider Felictie Island
where there are only three rooms available - otherwise you may be happy
at Beau Vallon Bay on Mahe where
you can hire a sailboard, go paragliding or even round
off the day with dancing to Camtole music before taking a barefoot stroll
along the beach.
Report
by Allan Rogers