"Some of the more obtuse islanders claim that England is their oldest colony!"

                      
The Norman’s Isles,
Guernsey & Herm

We sailed towards the island of Herm on one of the frequent 'Trident' ferries. It was a fast 250 seat catamaran and we zoomed past a sailing ship. 

It was speedy too, leaving a froth of foam in it's wake. 

We estimated that it would have been approaching Castle Cornet at the entrance to Guernsey's harbour by the time we would be climbing the path towards the attractive garden of Herm's White House Hotel.

It was steep and along the way a local girl pointed out a little church whose aisle was also on a slope. "When I left the Island" she said, "I was quite surprised to find that all churches were not like this, having been told that brides 'went up' the aisle."

It was a charming little island and the £6 fare seemed really good value for a day out that could give you the choice of golden beaches or exploring farm tracks through meadows where you found the occasional palm tree and a profusion of tropical flowers. Near the hotel there was a tiny building with a domed roof this turned out to be an 18th Century prison and is believed to be the smallest in Europe.

We fortified ourselves with a pie and a ploughman’s lunch at The Mermaid Pub before climbing up the Monks Way to the manor at the heart of the island. 

There we found the ancient chapel of St Tiguals and also peered in at the window of Herm's tiny schoolroom where a notice above a map read 
"The Channel Islands are part of the British Isles" This is an interesting point since they have been part of Normandy since William The Conqueror invaded England. Some of the more obtuse islanders claim that England is their oldest colony!

 Then we had to make a choice between the cliff walks or the string of white beaches that ran along the Northern shore. We combed the beaches and barefoot paddled through rock pools. 

One of our favourite places was ‘Shell Beach’ were we met people who were camping on the island. 

You can either hire modern well equipped tents or pitch your own on a sea facing terrace where you can look out on a superb view across the cliff tops to Sark and France. 

Being day trippers we took the ferry back to Guernsey. We travelled on the last one with people who were, having a 'Sunset Dinner' at the White House Hotel. 

It's very popular with the locals, who get their glad rags on and dine at 'The Captain's Table restaurant. The £19.50 they pay includes the ferry fare.

The journey back under the stars was impressive as was our entry into St Peter's Port harbour where Castle Cornet was floodlit. As we watched the lights reflected in the water we resolved to try and be there when Guernsey celebrates 'Liberation Day' on the 9th of May. The castle becomes the centre piece for a fantastic fireworks display.

In Guernsey in Market Street each Thursday you find a colourful touch of history when the stall holders wear their traditional costume. It includes a bonnet which used to protect the back of the women’s neck from the hot sun when they were milking the cows. 

The cows on the island are rather special and, as I found at lunch, the butter seems to be a much more vivid yellow due to the rich fat content.

We had it at ‘Battens’ one of the quality restaurants where visitors to Guernsey may benefit from a spin off from the 'off shore investment industry ' the great increase in the ‘expense account dining’ by the dark suited wheelers has affected many restaurants. In competing they have lowered their prices and raised their standards.

Visitors find the islands all very familiar, and the police  are British style bobbies wearing helmets plus shops like Marks and Spencers and Wollies. What is different is the absence of VAT and of course the warmth. The gulf stream helps a lot and in the late autumn I saw an old guy with swimming gear hoisting an out board motor onto the boat that he was launching from his trailer. He seemed to be fit and enjoying his retirement

There are guided walks around St Peters Port on Mondays Wednesdays and Fridays £3.50

At Smausarez Manor in St Martins we visited Guernsey's largest park where we followed a ‘Sculpture Trail’ amid trees. You can easily spend three quarters of a day there as it also has a small railway, a collection of dolls house, and farm animals for the children.

At the cafe by a pond surrounded by ducks and hens I chatted to Peter De Sausmarez who family have been associated with the property for almost a thousand years. 

They came with the Vikings to France, then arrived at Guernsey via Jersey in 1220 and have been there ever since. 

"How big is the place" I asked? and was told "20 virgees, that’s about 15 acres.".. a virgee being the measure of what a Norman could plough with an ox in a day. 

There were no oxen handy, but there was a collection of petting animals. A blackboard listed events that ranged from 'Hamster Handling' to 'ferret walking' not having bicycle clips for my trousers, I didn't want to risk the latter so I settled for taking some pictures of Tiffany and Bianca, (Guensey calves) and some pot bellied pigs before tackling the miniature railway line which took us for a run through the woods. 

We trundled round the track, ducking under the honeysuckle, going through a tunnel of bamboo plants and then on for quarter of a mile through trees and reeds. 

Somewhere out there, I was told, was an escaped chimpanzee but all I saw children’s toys, teddy bears, pandas, and floppy eared bunnies that peeped from trees. There was even a stuffed moose perched on top of a railway signal. It seemed a good 90p's worth.(I'm sure that the children would enjoy it too!)

The great thing about Guernsey is that it never really gets very cold in the winter so they are able to grow things like bananas, tree ferns and brilliantly coloured bushes.

 The local drivers seemed courteous as we meandered through a maze of little roads on the island. In the parish of St Andrews we found, Les Vauxbelets where they have what is claimed to be the world smallest church. It was built by a Monk in 1920 and encrusted, inside and out with brightly coloured fragments of pottery. 

Along the islands 35 mile coastline there are seventeen beaches and a highlight was driving along the narrow lanes out to ‘Icart Point’ and following the cliff top path to Petit Pot Bay. Down below people sunbathed in sandy coves and canoeist explored the coast.

All too soon it was time to hand back the hire car and I noticed that mine like the others had a largish bright yellow patch bearing the letter ‘H.’ One local explained with a smile:

" H, ' horror cars’ we call them, It’s so as we know who the visitor are!"

report by Allan Rogers

( NB. Please check prices my visit was over twelve months ago )

FACT FILE

Self catering & camping holidays on Herm Island Tel: 01481 722377.

The White House Hotel. Herm. Tel: 01481 722159

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