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North
of the Border down Mexico Way
....SAN Diego
It was
only when I woke up and pulled back the curtains that the size and
scale of The San
Diego Marriott Hotel fully hit me, I looked down from my 20th
floor room (There were another five floors above) to find that
beyond the swimming pool and waterfall it had it’s own marina. The
boats were not all rich men’s toys. You could rent them by the
hour or by the day, everything from a thirty foot Catalina yacht
that could hold eight people (£143 a day) through to a 14 foot sail
boat (at £15 an hour) For the nautically or financially challenged
there were even kayaks (£7.50 an hour or £22 half day.) To help me
plan my precious time one of the helpful girls at the concierge
desk, plied me with a bewildering range of suggestions and even more
leaflets. I decided to pour over them at breakfast so I headed for
San Diego Pier Café, which looked like the kind of ancient wooden
construction that Popeye might have lived in. Folk were getting
ready for work and on my way past the marina park I met a clown busy
putting his make up on. Across the bay at the North Island Air
Station the first flight of Navy planes were taking to the air and
tugs were edging an aircraft carrier in to its mooring while a fully
rigged schooner sailed by.
The
Seaport Village looked quite ancient with Mexican style buildings
and street lamps. "Authenticators" from Disneyland had
used special techniques with plaster, cement and sandblasting to
give the bay front attraction a century-old antiquated look. One of
the popular attractions there is a carousel which originated at
Coney Island in 1890. Four hundred thousand visitors a year come to
ride it and visit the shops, ponds and lakes. After breakfast I
found that the clown was already surrounded by children and doing
tricks with balloons. I set off on one of the old town trolleys, an
orange and green bus that gives you an excellent introduction to the
place. You can stay on for a two hour narrated tour or hop off and
on at nine different locations. Along the way you learn that San
Diego was founded by the Spaniards who built their missions thirty
miles apart, (one days journey by horse.)
It was a
military base and still is. Eighty thousand marines a year graduate
at the training base and you can watch a passing out parade each
Friday morning.
It also
used to have flourishing tuna trawlers. Now there is a busy cruise
terminal and a ferry to Catalina Island. San Diego is the 6th
largest city in the United States and that being only 17 miles from
Tijuana in Mexico, it makes an excellent base for "a two nation
vacation." (A ticket there on the light railway costs only
£1.12.) Another attraction is the famous San Diego Zoo where you
can visit some of the 4000 animals and peer down from an aerial
cable lift that runs for a third of a mile across the treetops.
We hopped
off our trolley at the Old Town State Park for a sanitised taste of
life in the old west, Mexican style. In the courtyard of the Casa de
Bandini Restaurant we ordered large margaritas and the
ladies in our party were flattered when the mustachioed waiter asked
for their ID. "to prove that they were over twenty one."
It was
obviously not the first time he had shot that line.
Public
transport in San Diego is excellent and as I like to be with the
locals I took a No 34 bus for La Jolla with it’s
pleasant coves. I joined the pelicans perched on the rocks and
watched the ‘fly past’ of a squadron of cormorants. They flew in
line skimming the sea while snorkellers slipped into the water to
visit what was described as a colourful underwater garden. You can
wander the cliff-top boulevard with it’s pungent scent of gnarled
eucalyptus trees or relax on old wrought-iron benches decorated with
sea-horses. It is a beautiful spot where bird of paradise flowers
grow and I was not surprised to see it being used as a location for
wedding pictures.
Feeling
energetic I followed the sandy bay north passing surfers riding in
on the pacific rollers. It was a long hike in the warm sun but I
eventually reached the Torry Pines State park.
As I was cooling off
in the sea a "Clint Eastwood look alike" and his friends
pointed out a whale and some porpoise wheeling out of the water just
a few hundred yards from the shore.
Nearby was the Solana Beach rail
station from where a smart green and blue double deck train whisked
me back to San Diego.
It was a
scenic journey, riding along the top of the cliff and the walk that
took be almost two hours was retraced in a matter of minutes.
The next
day when the girl at the concierge desk asked if I still wanted to
hire a bike or kayak, or was I perhaps interested in volleyball? I
asked for directions to the Jacuzzi.
FACT
FILE
California
Tourism 0891 200278 (Premium Rate)
San Diego
Marriott Hotel and Marina 0800 221 222 (toll free)
Flights
to Los Angeles via London with Virgin Atlantic 01293 747 747 and
British Midland.
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IMPORTANT - DO NOT CUT FACTFILE )
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