Worldrover   TRAVEL MAGAZINE. November  2001    

 

Allan Rogers
finds the Portuguese influence in Goa  and other things....


On the beach you have the physical side of things, you can get an all over body massage in coconut oil or there are  some rather strange gentlemen who offer an ear cleaning service
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IN GOLDEN GOA   

 


If after almost half a day in the plane you expect the world that has spun beneath you to be a bit different, then when you reach Goa you won’t be disappointed.  

You drive out from the airport in a bus with fans above the seat and hot air blowing in through the open windows.
 It’s the brilliance of the colours that strikes you first.

The tall palm trees with bright blue skies above and on the red earth below  pigs scratching around the bamboo covered shacks.

The roads with their dusty verges are not for the faint hearted.

The larger vehicles approach head to head, swerving at the last moment. 

I looked out saw that we were overtaking a  scooter carrying a complete family. There were two children between dad and the handlebars and the mum who was clinging on, with her sari flying in the breeze, was holding a baby. Every now and then we’d grind to a halt as a white cow sauntered across the highway or we’d pass carts hauled by water buffalo.

 

It’s all seemed typically ‘Indian’ but as we  got to know Goa we discovered the Portuguese influence and found that the churches outnumbered the temples and every few hundred yards there were roadside shrines. It was a fascinating mixture.  

The beach side shacks provide a surprising range of food and even the cheapest will serve up king prawns, lobster and shark.  I settled for a vindaloo and a ‘Kingfisher’

The Kingfisher is the beer which comes in litre bottles and is a good deal more palatable than the wine. With  temperatures in the nineties you get very thirsty.

 

The bays were beautiful, especially in the North. Golden sands and palm trees what more could you ask for?  Though a word of caution if you are struck by it’s beauty, have a care, I was narrowly missed by a falling coconut, so watch where you dream!  Naturally I used my nut, I opened the coconut up and enjoyed the drink.

 

  On the beaches fruit sellers will slice up a pineapple for you as you sunbathe.

If you buy one you can dive into the sea to clean your sticky fingers.

 

 Peddlers wander along offering jewellery, carpets, and bags. Then you have the physical side of things, you can get an all over body massage in coconut oil or there are  some rather strange gentlemen who offer an ear cleaning service. I wasn’t quite brave enough to let them stick their twigs in my lug holes!

If you linger on the beach until evening you’ll be on hand to watch the fishing. As teams of men haul in the nets it makes quite a dramatic photograph against the setting sun.

 

 ‘Nostalgia by Steam Train’ was the title of one of the excursions we tried.  It puffed away from Vasco da Gama  up to Chandor  taking us to a large colonial home for high tea. Through the open doors of our wooden carriage we watched as villages and the fields of bright yellow flowers slipped by and every now and then when the train slowed down we were joined by locals hitching a ride on the running board.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other forms of transport include the auto-rickshaw, or ‘tuk-tuk’ as the noisy  black and yellow three wheelers are more colourfully called.  They are very cheap and you can hire them by the day to take you to the more distant beaches.

 

I visited the market at Marpusa and found that it was different  from any other market that I’d ever been to. 

A group crowded round a snake charmer, who was setting a mongoose against a cobra and I found a mass of humanity giving the hard sell to baubles, bangle, beads, bedspreads.

There was everything that I didn’t really need.. I had a go at bargaining, but somehow the price was never right.  The word nekka is the first one you learn, and use most, it means ‘no!’ but not many of the traders believed it.

 It  was all very colourful, and while what I saw with my eyes made me itch to catch it all on camera, what I smelled with my nose left me less enthusiastic, especially when

I reached the ladies who squatted on the ground surrounded by heaps of dried fish.

In the end I settled for an upmarket tee shirt for about £1.50 and was rather surprised to find a tag for C&A’s already attached. I think I did better than a lady in our group who bought a brilliant bedspread for £35, she said it was a bargain but reckoned that she would have to repaint her bed room to match it!

 

On the last evening we drove through the bustling streets of Panaji and after watching the sun go down on the Mandovi River we had dinner in a Goan home. The house was in the Portugeuse style and the owners wife sung to the music of a guitar as we relaxed on the veranda. Back in 1510, the Portuguese made Goa the capital of their eastern empire, it’s dazzling opulence earned it the title of Goa Durada, ‘Golden Goa’, today applied to tourism, it’s a name that fits well.