Anthony Dalton 
SCALES THE HEIGHTS OF eUROPE'S LARGEST sAND DUNE

"As the setting sun paints lurid colours on the sea and the sand, the view of the big dune from a boat on the Bay of Biscay is spectacular."

HALF-WAY DUNE.

Straddling a line of latitude exactly half-way between the North Pole and the Equator, 
the Dune du Pilat is a monster pile of sand. Standing nearly 120 metres high, over 500 metres wide and approaching three kilometres in length, 

Pilat dominates the immediate surroundings and offers commanding views of France’s Cote d’Argent. From the approach walk through a forest of fir trees it looks like a yellow mountain. From sea level this, the largest sand dune in Europe, is an awesome sight. And it is still growing!  

     Huge though it looks from the ground, its true scope can only be appreciated by standing at its apex. To do so, of course, requires some effort. Early morning, just about sunrise, is an ideal time for an expedition to the top. The light on the sand is subtle at dawn and, a bonus for some, there are far fewer people around at that time. 

Two steep stairways climb the near vertical north end of the dune. One is wooden and beginning to show its age. The other, a few paces away, is modern: a plastic convenience. Later in the day, when the sun has warmed the sand, they will both be busy with energetic sightseers.

 From the top, the 19th century light-house at the end of the spindly Cap Ferret peninsula can be seen. Once, with danger all around, it beamed its warning to all ships. Today it is a benign red and white monolith surrounded by holiday homes.  

The great dune, just nine kilometres south of Arcachon and the Arcachon Basin,  overlooks the Bay of Biscay and the Atlantic Ocean on one side. Offshore a couple of large huts, known as les cabanes tchanquees, stand clear of the sea on stilts said to be nearly four metres high. Beneath and around the pair a series of sand bars create an irregular sea bed of miniature submarine sand dunes. 

To the east, the landward side, the Dune du Pilat spreads its base among a rich forest of pine trees.  The cabanes, at high tide the ideal get-away home, are privately owned and unfortunately not for rent. At low tide this part of the coast is a maze of creeks, lagoons, mud flats and sand bars: a natural haven for thousands of wading birds. Perhaps that’s the reason for the cabanes. As the setting sun paints lurid colours on the sea and the sand, the view of the big dune from a boat on the Bay of Biscay is spectacular, as it must be from the two verandas.  

     Arcachon is a relatively new town, dating back only to 1852. Just sixty-four kilometres from Bordeaux, it is in a perfect position for holiday makers to sample fine local wines with the sun, sand and sea close by. Arcachon is both a sheltered winter resting place, protected as it is by the pine forests, and a vibrant summer resort. Plus it has an additional bonus. Arcachon Bay is home to some 2,500 oyster farmers. Their vast oyster beds spread over 4,500 acres of the 62,000 acre bay. In consequence almost all restaurants in the immediate area advertise fresh oysters on a daily basis. With so many eateries to choose from the competition is fierce, a fact reflected in the prices. It’s possible to order a dozen oysters, a bottle of white Bordeaux  and still get some change from 20.00 pounds.  

     On a clear morning, with low tide evident by the sand bars poking above the surface of the sea, an elderly couple struggle towards me and my dog through ankle deep sand to the highest point of Dune du Pilat. When they reach the apex they stop, holding on to each other, both bending slightly at the waist. In unison they huff and puff. No words pass between them. They have no breath left for talk. My dog bounds over to compliment them on the success of their climb, and to offer free kisses. The sturdy old couple are oblivious to the friendly mutt who, not easily offended, trots off to meet another early riser. The woman looks at her husband and tries to laugh. He has enough energy only for a smile. Holding hands, they straighten and look around for a few moments, their faces registering their pleasure. He takes a couple of photographs and they start down again. For them the dune has lived up to its expectations.

Fact File:

Arcachon Office du Tourisme, Place Franklin Roosevelt, 33120 Arcachon, France.
Tel: + 556.83.01.69