DRIFTING
IN THE DORDOGNE
It
seemed a totally different world when, leaving the
motorways, we slipped off into the quiet leafy byways,
the maze of roads that covered the Dordogne.
Here
were buildings that must have been old when Shakespeare
was a lad.
This
part of France with
its remote valleys pretty much went to sleep for a hundred
and fifty years until roads gave access to places that previously
were reached by river or rail.
So
in towns like Montinac you find crumbling building with
lofty balconies
fit for Juliet and Romeo or even Rumplestilskin and Rupunzel
(had the latter let down her hair, one tug on it,
and both she and the balcony,
would have come tumbling after.
The
appearance of the ancient tiled roofs and the winding lanes
is charming You really do feel immersed in history.
Outside
the little towns the heavily wooded hills reminded me of
certain parts of my native Argyll in Scotland, but
with the heat switched on!
The
valleys lead down to rivers and there are many places where
you can rent canoes.
The castles and chateaux that dramatically overhang
the river are best seen from the water.
“Canoe-Kayak
Les 7 Rives” have their base at
Montinac in an old hydro electric powerhouse that
dates back to the turn of the last century. Using
their Canadian style canoes you can choose between a variety
of leisurely descents the River La Vezeere. An hour and
an half will take you to down the 8 km to Thornac
(£12. For two adults)
2 ½ hrs to Saint –Leon
of 3 to 4 hours will have you exploring 6 km to La
Rogue Saint- Christopher (£16.)
A mini bus gathers you and other canoeists and brings
you back to the base. Pick up points are always at a bridge
so you should have no difficulty in spotting you landing
place The water
is safe. It is a very quiet river and there are no rapids
so you just relax and watch the castles as you drift by.
Chateau
Le Poy Robert and
at Thonac Chateau
de Losse on the rocks Its a great experience and cameras
can be taken along safely in waterproof containers.
 Talking
of 'containers' locals buy their wine in 5 litre ones at
a cost of £3.90.
a bottle with a Bergerac label is only 80 p #
Grotte de Lasacuax
A
visit to The Grotte
de Lasacuax is a 'must' to see the famous prehistoric cave
paintings.
You
are probably familiar with four or five of the images of
bison, deer, stubby horses. What was surprising was the
sheer quantity of animals that were depicted painted
across the roof of the cave. To protect the original paintings
what you see now is a clever and exact replica of the spectacular
work. The commentary is in French but all should enjoy the
experience.
The
great thing is to get one of the Michelin local maps and
loose yourself in the little roads that criss- cross the
green valleys. We followed these quiet roads. The little
D65 took us
from the caves of Lascaux (near Montinac) and ran close
to the river La Vérère .
Along the way we
stopped to admire Chateau Losse across the water
and visited Sereac.
Were
lucky enough to take an
even smaller road that led us up to the Auberge de
Castle-Merele. There we had lunch on a
terrace with a superb panoramic view
The meal was exceptional
and our first experience of Périgord cuisine.
A six course meal for two with half a carafe of the
local rosé cost
£23
‘La Bouquerie’
We
stayed near the little hamlet of
St Geniès at the
Camping La Bouquerie
where the owner
Madam François Danielou
seems to personally
welcome everyone and walks around with them to help
them select the pitch which is best for them, pointing out
which will have shade and which will not.
This attention and the fact that there is a swimming pool
and other excellent facilities perhaps account for it being
a Michelin award winning site and consistently rated as
a top site with Canvas holidays and
Eurocamp who have a number of ready erected tents
and mobile homes.
The
ancient stone buildings that have been lovingly restored
and converted to a
bar and terrace were formerly a farm and known to
the locals as ‘La Bouquerie’ -
a place where they keep the billy and nanny goats.
For
us it was a happy experience and we
decided to give our trailer tent and ourselves a bit of
a rest
and booked one of Madam’s Mobile homes.
Report
by Allan Rogers 
FACT FILE
Camping - Caravanning
La Bouquerie:
http://www.labouquerie.com/ Canoeing:
www.canoe-france.com
Copeyre Canoe- Email: canoe@mail.netsouce.fr
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