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GAEL
ARTHUR REPORTS
One
of the best learning experiences in terms of winemaking style and
flavour can be gained in Alsace.
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THE
DAYS OF WINE AND ROSÉ
and The
Rieslings of Alsace
France
– the mere word conjures up visions of spectacular
meals with impeccable wines. 
For
those of us obsessed with wine and food, it is the sublime marriage of
wine and food in France that makes a journey to one of the wine
regions so intriguing.
It doesn’t really matter whether the wine or the food came
first; suffice to say that they belong together.
Each wine region of France has its own identity and each is
worthy of serious exploration.
So,
take Alsace. It’s a
wonderful spot, with
the questionable honour of having been tossed back and forth between
the French and the Germans more than once – it changed
hands four times between 1870 and 1880, then another three times in
the 20th century.
The result is a strong provincial identity, complete with an unusual
dialect spoken amongst the locals (heard amongst friends in the bar
over a glass of marc, the distilled product produced from wine pomace).
Setting
out to explore the hillside towns with names as charming as they are
difficult for a non-native to pronounce correctly (is Riquewihr with a
“w” as in water or a v” as in vat?) requires a bit of planning,
priorities firmly established.
The charming medieval towns with half-timbered houses adorned with
enticing “Winstub” signs (wine tasting) offer everything from
architecture to history, but try not to get caught up in the tourist
element. Indeed, the word
“kitsch” comes to mind as the images of storks sitting on bell
towers decorate every type of souvenir.
Go for the practical, and pick up a few pieces of the traditional
pottery, or the lovely green tinted long stemmed crystal wine glasses. Neither is cheap, but the design and quality will reward you
when you are back home, reminding you of fine food and drink on your
trip.
While
terroir is important in Alsatian wines, the label on the bottle
won’t help you here (all right, it may not help in Burgundy or
Bordeaux either, but in those regions, it’s a starting point).
Other than Edelzwicker (a blend of any number of the ten or so
white grapes that grace the Vosges slopes), wines are labeled by their
individual grape varietal, rather than by the plot of land from which
they hail.
Most producers seem to opt for the generalist approach,
each producing six or eight different wines, so a visit to a winery
can get tricky. Three is
the generally accepted number of wines to taste, although, depending
on your conversation with your host (and, depending on whether or not
you hit it off), you may get to sample more.
Choose wisely, trying to determine if the producer in
question has any wines of which he is particularly proud.
Don’t automatically eschew the simple and much maligned
Sylvaner, as it can be heavenly if well made.
While there is red wine – Pinot Noir – grown in small quantities
in Alsace, it is more of a curiosity, leaning towards the light and
thin  range
of that noble grape.
The
Rieslings of Alsace are perfectly suited for fresh water fish, like
trout (a smoked trout tart would suit nicely). Gewürztraminer from
this thin strip of land - 120 km long and only 4 kilometers across at
its widest – serves to remind all the imposters that this wine is
not first and foremost sweet.
Above all, it is aromatic and complex, offering up its most delicate
flavours and aromas when slightly warmer than standard white wine
serving temperatures. (Only
a cretin would think of serving it straight out of the refrigerator
and, if waiter has the audacity to bring an ice bucket along with the
bottle, you are perfectly within your rights to waive it away without
deigning to speak to the poor sod.)
While North Americans automatically pair Gewürztraminer with
turkey, it is well suited for numerous other dishes, including Asian
cuisine, where the spicy character is a perfect foil to the complex
flavour combination of Chinese, even Sichuan tables.
One
of the best learning experiences in terms of winemaking style and
flavour development as it relates to sugar can be gained in Alsace. Take a bone dry Gewürztraminer or Riesling, then compare it
to the same grape, turned into s a Vendage Tardive – a late harvest
wine, where the grapes have been left on the vine to develop higher
sugar levels (think of the German Spätlese / Auslese categories).
An even higher level of sugar is reached before picking the SGN
grapes (Sélection Grains Nobles), which often have been affected by
Botrytis as well. A
mediocre SGN will be sweet first and foremost, but a well-crafted
example will have amazing complexity of aroma and flavour, with
acidity offering a strong backbone for the residual sugar.
These wines can age well, if properly stored.
Watch out for the alcohol content on these “dessert” wines
– a three sample limit is probably a good idea, especially for those
contemplating driving.
One
more thing – even if you are overloaded on your baggage and the
thought of carrying another bottle home is beyond you – buy one.
Chances are you will be able to use a dry wine as an aperitif
wine before dinner one evening in your hotel if you really can’t
face carrying it home.
The late harvest wines often come in half bottles, which are easy tuck
into your carry on luggage. The
selection of Alsace wines outside of France tends to be limited, so if
you find a wine you like, buy it!
(In the United States, you may have trouble finding more than
two or three Alsatian wines, and they will generally be the mass
produced commercial products; at date of writing, Canada’s British
Columbia liquor stores offer more than 20 choices, one of the best
selections in years).
Finally,
make sure you leave time to visit the incredible Musée
d’Underlinden in Colmar, worth the visit for more than the
magnificent Grünewald altarpiece.
A
few web sites to check out while planning your trip:
Wines
of Alsace: http://www.civa.fr
General
tourism: http://www.tourisme-alsace.com
http://www.alsace-info.com
http://users.skynet.be/alsace-terroir/
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