GAEL ARTHUR 
reports:

For great value and less luxury, agro-tourism is the only way to go.  When you look at the compelling rates on the internet  you will be tempted to book right away. 

“Cyprus? Why Cyprus?”

“Cyprus? Why Cyprus?” 

I ignore the temptation to say “Why not?” or “Because” and simply start on the litany of reasons, starting with the archaeology, the water, the culture, working my way through to the average winter temperature of this Mediterranean paradise.  I am interrupted several times.

“But do you know where it is?”  Yes, as it happens, I have always been pretty good at geography.  Cyprus lies in the Eastern part of the Mediterranean, closer to Turkey, Syria, Lebanon and Israel than its closest Greek cousin, Rhodes. Isn’t that the point?  

There are three reasons this small island boasts Neolithic settlements, Aphrodite’s birthplace, Hellenistic tombs, Roman mosaics, a pillar where St. Paul was reputedly beaten, a Crusader’s castle (Richard the Lion Hearted was wed here), Turkish forts and incomparable Orthodox monasteries.  The three reasons?  Location, location, location.

“But, aren’t you worried, you know, with everything that is going on?”  Excuse me?  Assuming you are willing to get on one or more airplanes – and I am – Cyprus is one of the safest places you can find. 

I won’t deny that “the last divided capital” – as the melodramatic press consistently call Nicosia – has a barbed wire fence running through it.  But I will also tell you that if you don’t search out the “wall” (which doesn’t even vaguely resemble the Berlin Wall), you won’t even see it.  If you choose to learn about the Turkish invasion of the northern third of the country in 1974 (and all the subterfuge that went along with it), the information is there, but if you are looking for a holiday untroubled by real world issues, this is the place.  Not to put too fine a point on it, I saw more guns and felt more tension in the Boston airport on the way home than during the entire time in Cyprus.

“But it’s such a small place.  Won’t you be bored with a whole week there?”  I’ve spent a week in many places that have a lot less to offer and didn’t manage to get bored, so this concern just draws a smile.  By day two in Cyprus, I recognize what I really need is two to three weeks to start to get to know the island.  Even with a brutal schedule of touring and visits, I acknowledge we will miss “must-sees” all over the place.  And we aren’t even thinking of a day or two lolling about by the pool or at the beach.

By day three, I resolve to return, definitely sooner, rather than later, and begin to sketch out the itinerary for a three week stay, which might allow for a short cruise.  Perhaps a week in an agrotourism spot in a small town with hiking in the area.  I like the idea of having coffee at the same little café every day, and buying dinner in the local stores.  With any luck, the mother of the owner of the agrotourism spot will still make halloumi cheese in the traditional way, so I can learn not just how to make it, but hear stories about how it became such a mainstay of the cuisine. 

“But you love food and wine – what kind of food is there in Cyprus?”  This question is pretty easy to dispense with, as mellifluous worlds roll off my tongue –  kleftiko, moussaka, kourapiedes, dolmades, taramosalata, melomakarona, gyros, souvlaki.  The food of Cyprus is not dissimilar from the Greek favourites I frequently choose at home.

“And the wine?”  Well, unless you go, you aren’t likely to taste much more than the industrial brands which are exported to the UK.  Cyprus has a wine tradition that stretches back four millennia.  That’s right, 2000 BC.  For the last several decades, wines have been made to less than exacting criteria.  There was a demand on the part of British importers for cheap serviceable product and the large manufacturers met that need.  But like most countries where 80% of production is controlled by a small number of major companies, the little guys are working to produce high quality products in smaller quantities.  The big four wine concerns are also aware that there is a market for premium products, so they are devoting more resources to quality enhancements. 

When you are working with indigenous grapes, you have distinctive flavours that may or may not be popular in the foreign markets, but fit the food of the country.  Some winemakers are sticking with traditional vines, while others are embracing Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.  As a big believer in terroir, I imagine these grapes can be good here, as long as the right elevation and location are chosen.  Cyprus has lots of choice, with mountains and foothills rising up from its sunny shores.  The big challenge will be whether the value of a hectare of vines will ever approach the value of olive trees or retirement complexes for pensioned Brits (for whom the tax treaties are extremely attractive). 

And finally, “But isn’t it expensive to travel so far?”  Hey, I am the first one to calculate whether a country is good value and that includes not only the price of the air fare, but also the costs of eating and living well once I get there.  Now, having been there, I realize it is an even better deal than before I went.  While food is on par with Canada (meaning about 50 – 75% less expensive than the US), accommodation is the big win here.  Three hotels in three cities, all offering great service, terrific amenities and waterfront locations, were all extremely well-priced. 

The Paphos Amathus, a five-star hotel (with superior service than many similarly rated hotels I have stayed in, both in North America and Europe) is the kind of place you could just settle into for the season, at prices that make you wonder if you are doing the conversion correctly (www.pamathus.com).  Of course, the time of year is critical to getting the best prices, while optimizing the weather conditions.  It seems to me November and March are two of the best months for value and climate.

For great value and less luxury, agro-tourism is the only way to go.  When you look at the compelling rates on the internet (see below), you will be tempted to book right away.   The packages are particularly attractive, as they often include a rental car, an absolute necessity if you are planning to really see the country.  Better yet, send the Cyprus Tourism Organization an e-mail and ask them to send you a brochure of all the agrotourism spots. (At the same time, ask them for some of their other brochures, so you can start planning your itinerary.)

Fact file:

Cyprus Tourism Organization – gocyprus@aol.com

Paphos Amathus Hotel – www.pamathus.com

Sandy Beach Hotel – near Larnaca http://www.dilosfn.com/hotels/sandybeach_larnaca.html

Hawaii Grand Hotel – in Limassol - http://www.hawaiihotel.com/

Agritourism:

http://www.agrotourism.com

http://www.cyagrotourismo.com

Cruising:

Louis Cruises – www.louiscruise.com