GAEL ARTHUR TAKES IN THE

SEATTLE SIGHTS ©

The end of a weekend jaunt always brings that slight yearning, that really, another day would have been ideal.
Experience has proven that two days could be three, and, with Seattle, three days could easily be four.



At trip to Seattle is a treat no matter what time of year. The weather is temperate and the rain rarely disrupts activities (it’s often a gentle drizzle). On a clear day, you can get spectacular pictures of a city that is modern, yet old-time American at its core.

Start the day with a good walk – the earlier you head down to the Pike Place Market, the better.

The stalls look fresher and the tourists are still standing in line for their latte down at the original Starbuck’s.

(If you’re interested in the whole coffee culture, you could spend days checking out the smaller independents along with the now entrenched second, third and fourth large chains in the city.)

The Market was established in 1907 to give consumers a chance to buy direct from producers – price-gouging middlemen had caused a public outcry.

The early days of the farmers’ market is a story of success, while the ensuing decades offer a rich history (the incarceration of the Japanese almost wiping out the producers in 1942, the revitalization in the late 1970s). In addition to food stalls, there are a slew of restaurants, along with arts and crafts – 150 artisans stand cheek by jowl at narrow tables competing for your attention. Scan the excellent web site before you go, then seek out the highlights. (http://www.pikeplacemarket.com)

Good shoes are a must on a weekend of walking and when I think of shoes I think of Nordstroms.

Even if I’m not in the market for shoes, I have to go in, if only to marvel at the merchandising and bask in the attention of sales staff who are both unobtrusive and helpful. I always leave with a sense of well-being, something that never happens in Canadian department stores.
Nordstroms is close to one of Seattle’s hot hotels, the Elliott Grand Hyatt.
It is beautiful, with a lobby that begs for a glitzy reception of beautiful people to show off its walls (blocks of backlit onyx, lots of open space).

Enter its equally beautiful restaurant, 727 Pine, from the street, move through the bar, then flow down a couple of levels through the restaurant to the open kitchen. Open, but the height of the serving ledge hides the less attractive part of a kitchen (who really needs to see fingers primping plates?).

The menu is typical Northwest, salmon and clam chowder, crab cakes with citrus beurre blanc, grilled tuna sandwich. Although there is a heavy weighting to the seafood side of things, a series of steaks will satisfy the carnivores in the crowd.
The chef is new since my last visit (his promotion from Sous-Chef was announced this past September 8th), but given his pedigree (Michel Rostang in Paris, Campagne in Seattle, and French Laundry in Napa), I’d gamble on Shannon Galusha.

For lighter fare, the lounge has an extensive list of appetizers, and, more importantly, an excellent list of wines by the glass (any wine list that serves New Zealand’s Goldwater Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc gets my attention – www.goldwaterwine.com)

So, what is there in Seattle that you can’t see anywhere else? Well, unless you are heading to Bilbao any time soon, a Frank Gehry masterpiece. This one houses the Experience Music Project and, while I admit I went for the architecture, I stayed for the music.

It’s a sensual delight, starting with the arrival from downtown (Westlake Center) on the old (1963 World’s Fair) Monorail. Head up to the front by the driver, almost like an amusement ride for those of us who spend too much time in single passenger vehicles.

Although never a fan of Hendrix and Joplin, I could have spent hours here. Really. There are artifacts from the Woodstock era, lovingly displayed in a multi-media manner.
Seeing the Star Spangled Banner guitar, watching footage from the film, music unobtrusively flowing from ceiling and floor – it’s time travel at its finest.

The free audio guide offers more information that this body could assimilate in limited time. Take my advice: If you are at all interested in music, plan on three to four hours. Go early and head for the top floor, where the Sound Lab offers everything from interactive instruments that help you learn to play, to a center stage experience (there you and your band are, on the stage, the crowds, the lights, the smoke).

So, if Day One is food, shopping, food, architecture and music, what’s left? Well, for me, an escape from the city to the side of Seattle where the Microsofties live and play.

East Seattle is buffered by Lake Washington, with Kirkland offering everything from a place grab a quick beer to more shopping (smaller, very elegant stores) to serious restaurants. Hotels offer great accommodation on this side of the water, complete with spa facilities to ease you into the world of relaxation.

After a sublime dinner at Waters Bistro in the newly renovated Woodmark at Carillon Point (ahi tuna on barley salad, followed by a brilliant coriander and peppercorn ribeye), my king-size Frette sheeted bed for the night is at the Willows Lodge.

Both are Preferred Hotels, with a commitment to luxury that shows in everything from the sparkling water proffered at check-in to the 24 hour gyms.

After a race around Day One, give over the next day to self-indulgence. The hotel is located on a beautiful 5-acre piece of land, part of a little enclave of food and wine destinations, including Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Winery and Red Hook Ale Brewery just down the road.
If you are feeling like a bit of exercise, hotel staff will help you organize a bike ride or a canoe on the slough.

I confess to feeling so comfortable at the Willows that I could have spent a day or two alternating between the library above the lobby, the spa (check the packages) and my superb room (rooms are rated nice, nicer and nicest – my “nicer” was wonderful). The attention to detail was remarkable, with architecture blending into landscaping and Coast native artwork contributing to the serenity throughout.

The end of a weekend jaunt always brings that slight yearning, that really, another day would have been ideal. Experience has proven that two days could be three, and, with Seattle, three days could easily be four.

FACTFILE To see: Pike Market: http://www.pikeplacemarket.org EMP (Experience Music Project) http://www.emplive.com To Eat: 727 Pine, 202-774-6400, http://www.727pine.com Waters, Carillon Point, Kirkland, 206-803-5595, www.watersbistro.com To Stay: The Willows Lodge, 14580 NE 145th Street, Woodinville, 425-424-3900, http://www.willowslodge.com The bay is a magnet for visitors. You can eat outside under the grudging eyes of the gulls and watch the ferries shuttling back and forth. The Washinton State Ferries is the largest ferry system in the United States and the fares are reasonable. Boats from downtown can take you to the islands from which the locals commute. You can use the ferries to visit the Olympic National Park, Mount Rainier, to go north to Canada, to Alaska or closer by to the San Juan Islands.