It
was the drum that woke me first, the pattern of four beats and a pause,
growing ever closer.
It was four in the morning and outside in the northern Tunisian town
of Hammamat all was dark.
The drum was a wake up call for the local residents so that they might
eat and be ready for prayers.
It being he time of Ramadan they would then fast until sunset.

I drifted off to sleep but woke again as the first light of dawn shone
across the Mediterranean and bathed the turret of the minarets in
a rosy light.
From the loudspeakers on top of it came the sound of the Muezzin calling
the faithful to prayer.
The call drifted across the valley "Allah u akbar....... Allah
u akbar ....La ill’ Allah...”
(God is great...God is great...there is no God But God....)
It
was a wonderful introduction to a holiday, where you were definitely
aware of being in another culture, indeed another continent.
Scotland might be in the middle of a freezing winter but you could
be slopping the sun oil on and toasting in the sun.
I stayed in the Hotel Sol Azure which looked something like a cross
between a sultan’s palace and a giant white wedding cake and
it being off season, the crowds were missing so you got extra attention
from staff.
Beyond Hammamet’s ancient fort there is a beach where waiters
will serve you coffee at tables in the sand and a tall man dispenses
bouquets of jasmine from a hat decked with sweet smelling posies of
flowers

We
visited The Medina which contains a labyrinth of narrow lanes encircled
by walls that were built in the 15th century
There are some phrases that can help you cope with bargaining as you
run the gauntlet of the persistent local traders;
“Mandish Loose” means I have no money! “ Nooshie,
” Enough! and
“Yissi!” .... well, that gets rid of small boys flogging
scorpion paperweights!
Your
nationality seems to determine what you pay.
Germans are charged most, followed by French (because they once occupied
the country,) and then the Irish because when they arrive the bar
profits go through the roof and word spreads.
Report
by Allan Rogers