GOOD DRINKING
with Gael Arthur
NEW ZEALAND WINE

– THE QUEST FOR THE PERFECT PINOT NOIR ©

In North America, say “New Zealand wine” and most people will respond with “Sauvignon Blanc”. It’s been that way since Kevin Judd astonished the wine world with his 1985 Cloudy Bay interpretation of a wine that all too often prompts the “P” descriptions (as in, “green” and “cat”). The now classic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc exudes passion fruit and crisp gooseberry aromas, while delivering enough acidity to stand up to scallops with ginger and lime or steamed green shell mussels with chili and saffron.

Sauvignon Blanc, yes, but there is a lot more to the wine industry of this small antipodean country; the best way to find out is to visit.

The great thing about traveling to a country like New Zealand is that you can enjoy a second summer (particularly attractive on the cold, dark and rainy November day my flight left Vancouver). The country is full of so many things to do that you won’t be bored. The frustrating thing about New Zealand is that with so much to see and do, you will be plotting your return long before you leave.

If wine is your top priority, you need to make some hard decisions – there are now ten different wine regions spread along the full length of two islands and each could several days of concerted tasting.

Grape vines are being planted everywhere as fast as investors can close on the real estate and rip out the fruit trees or move the sheep to higher land. I visited five regions, incorporating plenty of non-wine activities into the formula. Next time, I will limit it to three.

Land given over to grapes here has doubled in just six years, not only to meet the world demand for Sauvignon Blanc but also in a serious attempt to capture the red wine drinker.

While Merlot and Syrah are on the increase, New Zealand has really thrown its heart and soul into the world’s most persnickety grape, Pinot Noir.

Plantings have grown six fold in as many years, with a lot more coming on stream over the next five years.

Few winemakers can cajole the best from Pinot Noir. Even Burgundians will admit that, while a great Pinot Noir is heaven, a bad one is very, very bad. Yet winemakers all over the world aspire to craft the perfect Pinot Noir, all too often when the climate and terroir are less than ideal.

Fortunately for New Zealand, there are several spots that have what it takes in terms of soil, hours of sunlight, diurnal temperature fluctuation (long hot days, followed by cool nights). Too much heat and Pinot Noir can be jammy; too little sunlight and the wine can turn green and vegetal.

To complicate matters, there are countless ways to mess up Pinot Noir in the winery, including the excessive use of new oak, which can overwhelm delicate flavours and aromas.

Waiheke Island, a short ferry ride from Auckland, is too warm to successfully grow Pinot Noir; the focus there is Bordeaux blends.

However, several of the island winemakers meet regularly to see what’s happening in the industry, and my visit to Goldwater Estates coincided with a Pinot Noir tasting.

We compared fifteen wines from New Zealand and Australia, along with a lone Canadian example I had brought along. While some of the wines were unremarkable, none were awful, and a few were excellent.



The Canadian wine passed muster (whew!) and we all agreed that eucalyptus is not attractive in Pinot Noir.

Three of the wines, from Nautilus, were experiments of a sort. In France, the focus is on “terroir” – the soil, the angle of the sun on the vineyard slope – as the determining factor in wine quality. But other factors are important: Grape vines are propagated from cuttings and growers seek out strong vines that exhibit specific characteristics – clones are chosen based on the attributes the viticulturist is seeking.

Nautilus has vines of three particular clones, Pommard 5, Dijon 115 and Dijon 777. They harvested and vinified each clone separately, treating the wines exactly the same, right up to bottling. Not only did we taste three different wines, by combining them, we were able to see just how important diversity can be in making a balanced and interesting wine.

The topic of clones came up frequently during the trip, as part of the arcane formula leading to the perfect Pinot. In a world of numbered clones, the best name has to be the “gumboot clone” (its hiding place when an on-the-ball customs officer confiscated it from an incoming passenger at the airport). Said customs officer, a Mr. Abel, took the cutting, then went through the proper quarantine procedures to authenticate and legitimize the vine, eventually starting his own vineyard. This clone is now one of the most-planted of the twenty-seven clones that make up the New Zealand Pinot Noir palette.

In a good vintage here (barring untimely frost, hail and rain), a skilled winemaker can create a fruit driven Pinot Noir that has depth, finesse and even elegance. The wines are solid, and there is a definite sense that the general quality is improving every year. But it has to be said, New Zealand Pinot Noir is not inexpensive.

Small boutique wineries are charging premium prices to cover high labour and production costs on small (but very expensive) plots of land.


When a frost can knock out half of production overnight, it is no wonder wineries are changing hands, often being purchased with offshore money. Expect some consolidation as the more than four hundred wineries jockey for positions in competitive domestic and international markets.

Since many of the top wines will never leave the country, plan on a lot of cellar door purchases. If you taste something you like, buy it! As your trip progresses, use up your supply at the BYO restaurants (many restaurants are quite happy to open your bottle for you for a nominal service charge, just confirm when you make the reservation).

Start your Pinot Noir tour in Martinborough, near the southern end of the North Island. The first generation of wineries (Ata Rangi, Martinborough, Dry River) has been operating for more than twenty years, but the area still has a wonderful agricultural feel to it. The glitziest place in town is the Martinborough Wine Centre, where you can purchase all your gifts for the folks back home while enjoying a coffee and a snack.

The people are friendly, as Jeff Barber discovered when he and his family moved here five years ago from Victoria, BC, to plant grapes.

“We were overwhelmed by the offers of help and genuinely surprised at how open and willing people have been to help us – there is an attitude here that everyone wants each other to excel in producing quality fruit and wine. It all helps strengthen the Martinborough brand.”

Jeff’s first vintage of Pond Paddock Pinot Noir already has a review from Jancis Robinson, who has been watching New Zealand Pinots for a while now. He is also making Riesling and Chardonnay.

(His friend Roger Parkinson from Nga Waka has a stellar Chardonnay that has terrific concentration and aging potential in the right vintage.)

Before leaving the North Island, it would be foolish to ignore Hawkes Bay, where John Hancock makes marvelous Syrah and Bordeaux blends (along with a bit of Tempranillo, just for fun). Hawkes Bay had always been considered too hot for Pinot Noir, but John has identified some ideal terrain, and his 2002 is stunning.

Heading to the south end of the South Island, Central Otago is walking away with awards far out of proportion to the volume of wine it produces. It’s gorgeous country, and nearby Queenstown is the jumping off spot for all sorts of adventure activities.

 

The famous Milford Sound is close; you can take the easy route and enjoy the view from a boat, or embark on one of countless hikes of varying difficulty. Bring plenty of bug spray…enough said.

For a cheap thrill, the world’s first bungee jumping spot lies between Queenstown and the Cromwell / Bannockburn wine area, home to Mount Difficulty (a great spot for lunch), Felton Road and a personal favourite, Quartz Reef.

The “no-frills” tasting room (in an industrial park) may put some people off, but the reality of winemaking shines brightest in places like this, our host’s hands dark purple from topping up barrels.

 

Central Otago is the home of the famous “Lord of the Rings” backdrops, so bear in mind you may be competing with movie stars for the wines – hence the sometimes breathtaking pricing.

However, if your last wine tour was to Napa or Sonoma, New Zealand touring will seem a real bargain. Throughout New Zealand, food and accommodation are reasonable, delivering value for money.

If you are limited in time and can’t hop from one wine region to the next, concentrate on Marlborough. Here, Pinot Noir vies with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and a host of white aromatics for attention. Chardonnay is grown in large quantities and is generally well made, but there aren’t any big surprises here.

By contrast, there is no single Pinot Gris here, with everything from the crisp, bone dry Alsatian style to a confusing moderately sweet wine with layers of flavours, not all of them singing in the same key (or even the same tune). Each taste is an adventure.

There are several creditable Rieslings and the Grove Mill Roussanne is delicious (another one you won’t find outside the winery, it was a one-time experiment).

It is the great variety of winemaking styles that makes wine touring and tasting in New Zealand interesting.

Let’s face it, if all wineries made similar wines, you could go to one, taste the range, and then kick back at the nearest restaurant for the rest of the day.

There will undoubtedly be a day or two like that in your travels. Make sure there is enough flexibility in your itinerary to allow for just that – after all, you are on vacation.

If you are on Waiheke Island that day, choose Te Whau, and try some of the small bowl starters (the hot smoked salmon was a favourite).



In Hawkes Bay, start at Sileni at the tasting bar, then ease into its great restaurant. Before leaving, go back to the cellar door and raid the temperature-controlled cheese room for the next day’s picnic.

In Marlborough, a garden and gallery will go along with your wine and food at Hunter’s – start with their bubble along with some green shell mussels, then move to the salmon and Chardonnay.

For a perfect view of the vineyard and the famous Marlborough horizon, try La Veranda, at Domaine Georges Michel.

The Pinot Noir exhibits a solid French elegance and the service is relaxed but efficient. The bread and olive oil (Seresin, extra virgin, organic, of course) remind you of Tuscany, but the food is pure New Zealand.

Food can be very good here. This is a country that has to rely on what it produces, so menus are seasonal and innovative of necessity. Piko piko (fern frond), kumara (a sweet potato) and terakihi (fish) are just a few of the mellifluous words that grace menus without intimidating.

If you are uncertain about what to order, you can’t go wrong with the lamb or venison. Save room for the cheese course, which will impress you with the new world take on some classic French flavours – a great way to enjoy that last drop of Pinot Noir.

A perfect Pinot Noir? While it may not exist, New Zealand is one of the better spots to carry on the quest.

When You Go
Planning a trip to New Zealand is remarkably easy – one web site leads to the next, laying out itineraries, recommending everything from accommodation to restaurants.

Here are a few of the best sites for wine-related activities:
http://www.nzwine.com
http://www.cuisine.co.nz
http://www.travel.newzealand.com

 

Gael Arthur ©

---

 

GOOD DRINKING
with Gael Arthur
NEW ZEALAND WINE

– THE QUEST FOR THE PERFECT PINOT NOIR ©

In North America, say “New Zealand wine” and most people will respond with “Sauvignon Blanc”. It’s been that way since Kevin Judd astonished the wine world with his 1985 Cloudy Bay interpretation of a wine that all too often prompts the “P” descriptions (as in, “green” and “cat”). The now classic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc exudes passion fruit and crisp gooseberry aromas, while delivering enough acidity to stand up to scallops with ginger and lime or steamed green shell mussels with chili and saffron.

Sauvignon Blanc, yes, but there is a lot more to the wine industry of this small antipodean country; the best way to find out is to visit.

The great thing about traveling to a country like New Zealand is that you can enjoy a second summer (particularly attractive on the cold, dark and rainy November day my flight left Vancouver). The country is full of so many things to do that you won’t be bored. The frustrating thing about New Zealand is that with so much to see and do, you will be plotting your return long before you leave.

If wine is your top priority, you need to make some hard decisions – there are now ten different wine regions spread along the full length of two islands and each could several days of concerted tasting.

Grape vines are being planted everywhere as fast as investors can close on the real estate and rip out the fruit trees or move the sheep to higher land. I visited five regions, incorporating plenty of non-wine activities into the formula. Next time, I will limit it to three.

Land given over to grapes here has doubled in just six years, not only to meet the world demand for Sauvignon Blanc but also in a serious attempt to capture the red wine drinker.

While Merlot and Syrah are on the increase, New Zealand has really thrown its heart and soul into the world’s most persnickety grape, Pinot Noir.

Plantings have grown six fold in as many years, with a lot more coming on stream over the next five years.

Few winemakers can cajole the best from Pinot Noir. Even Burgundians will admit that, while a great Pinot Noir is heaven, a bad one is very, very bad. Yet winemakers all over the world aspire to craft the perfect Pinot Noir, all too often when the climate and terroir are less than ideal.

Fortunately for New Zealand, there are several spots that have what it takes in terms of soil, hours of sunlight, diurnal temperature fluctuation (long hot days, followed by cool nights). Too much heat and Pinot Noir can be jammy; too little sunlight and the wine can turn green and vegetal.

To complicate matters, there are countless ways to mess up Pinot Noir in the winery, including the excessive use of new oak, which can overwhelm delicate flavours and aromas.

Waiheke Island, a short ferry ride from Auckland, is too warm to successfully grow Pinot Noir; the focus there is Bordeaux blends.

However, several of the island winemakers meet regularly to see what’s happening in the industry, and my visit to Goldwater Estates coincided with a Pinot Noir tasting.

We compared fifteen wines from New Zealand and Australia, along with a lone Canadian example I had brought along. While some of the wines were unremarkable, none were awful, and a few were excellent.



The Canadian wine passed muster (whew!) and we all agreed that eucalyptus is not attractive in Pinot Noir.

Three of the wines, from Nautilus, were experiments of a sort. In France, the focus is on “terroir” – the soil, the angle of the sun on the vineyard slope – as the determining factor in wine quality. But other factors are important: Grape vines are propagated from cuttings and growers seek out strong vines that exhibit specific characteristics – clones are chosen based on the attributes the viticulturist is seeking.

Nautilus has vines of three particular clones, Pommard 5, Dijon 115 and Dijon 777. They harvested and vinified each clone separately, treating the wines exactly the same, right up to bottling. Not only did we taste three different wines, by combining them, we were able to see just how important diversity can be in making a balanced and interesting wine.

The topic of clones came up frequently during the trip, as part of the arcane formula leading to the perfect Pinot. In a world of numbered clones, the best name has to be the “gumboot clone” (its hiding place when an on-the-ball customs officer confiscated it from an incoming passenger at the airport). Said customs officer, a Mr. Abel, took the cutting, then went through the proper quarantine procedures to authenticate and legitimize the vine, eventually starting his own vineyard. This clone is now one of the most-planted of the twenty-seven clones that make up the New Zealand Pinot Noir palette.

In a good vintage here (barring untimely frost, hail and rain), a skilled winemaker can create a fruit driven Pinot Noir that has depth, finesse and even elegance. The wines are solid, and there is a definite sense that the general quality is improving every year. But it has to be said, New Zealand Pinot Noir is not inexpensive.

Small boutique wineries are charging premium prices to cover high labour and production costs on small (but very expensive) plots of land.


When a frost can knock out half of production overnight, it is no wonder wineries are changing hands, often being purchased with offshore money. Expect some consolidation as the more than four hundred wineries jockey for positions in competitive domestic and international markets.

Since many of the top wines will never leave the country, plan on a lot of cellar door purchases. If you taste something you like, buy it! As your trip progresses, use up your supply at the BYO restaurants (many restaurants are quite happy to open your bottle for you for a nominal service charge, just confirm when you make the reservation).

Start your Pinot Noir tour in Martinborough, near the southern end of the North Island. The first generation of wineries (Ata Rangi, Martinborough, Dry River) has been operating for more than twenty years, but the area still has a wonderful agricultural feel to it. The glitziest place in town is the Martinborough Wine Centre, where you can purchase all your gifts for the folks back home while enjoying a coffee and a snack.

The people are friendly, as Jeff Barber discovered when he and his family moved here five years ago from Victoria, BC, to plant grapes.

“We were overwhelmed by the offers of help and genuinely surprised at how open and willing people have been to help us – there is an attitude here that everyone wants each other to excel in producing quality fruit and wine. It all helps strengthen the Martinborough brand.”

Jeff’s first vintage of Pond Paddock Pinot Noir already has a review from Jancis Robinson, who has been watching New Zealand Pinots for a while now. He is also making Riesling and Chardonnay.

(His friend Roger Parkinson from Nga Waka has a stellar Chardonnay that has terrific concentration and aging potential in the right vintage.)

Before leaving the North Island, it would be foolish to ignore Hawkes Bay, where John Hancock makes marvelous Syrah and Bordeaux blends (along with a bit of Tempranillo, just for fun). Hawkes Bay had always been considered too hot for Pinot Noir, but John has identified some ideal terrain, and his 2002 is stunning.

Heading to the south end of the South Island, Central Otago is walking away with awards far out of proportion to the volume of wine it produces. It’s gorgeous country, and nearby Queenstown is the jumping off spot for all sorts of adventure activities.

 

The famous Milford Sound is close; you can take the easy route and enjoy the view from a boat, or embark on one of countless hikes of varying difficulty. Bring plenty of bug spray…enough said.

For a cheap thrill, the world’s first bungee jumping spot lies between Queenstown and the Cromwell / Bannockburn wine area, home to Mount Difficulty (a great spot for lunch), Felton Road and a personal favourite, Quartz Reef.

The “no-frills” tasting room (in an industrial park) may put some people off, but the reality of winemaking shines brightest in places like this, our host’s hands dark purple from topping up barrels.

 

Central Otago is the home of the famous “Lord of the Rings” backdrops, so bear in mind you may be competing with movie stars for the wines – hence the sometimes breathtaking pricing.

However, if your last wine tour was to Napa or Sonoma, New Zealand touring will seem a real bargain. Throughout New Zealand, food and accommodation are reasonable, delivering value for money.

If you are limited in time and can’t hop from one wine region to the next, concentrate on Marlborough. Here, Pinot Noir vies with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and a host of white aromatics for attention. Chardonnay is grown in large quantities and is generally well made, but there aren’t any big surprises here.

By contrast, there is no single Pinot Gris here, with everything from the crisp, bone dry Alsatian style to a confusing moderately sweet wine with layers of flavours, not all of them singing in the same key (or even the same tune). Each taste is an adventure.

There are several creditable Rieslings and the Grove Mill Roussanne is delicious (another one you won’t find outside the winery, it was a one-time experiment).

It is the great variety of winemaking styles that makes wine touring and tasting in New Zealand interesting.

Let’s face it, if all wineries made similar wines, you could go to one, taste the range, and then kick back at the nearest restaurant for the rest of the day.

There will undoubtedly be a day or two like that in your travels. Make sure there is enough flexibility in your itinerary to allow for just that – after all, you are on vacation.

If you are on Waiheke Island that day, choose Te Whau, and try some of the small bowl starters (the hot smoked salmon was a favourite).



In Hawkes Bay, start at Sileni at the tasting bar, then ease into its great restaurant. Before leaving, go back to the cellar door and raid the temperature-controlled cheese room for the next day’s picnic.

In Marlborough, a garden and gallery will go along with your wine and food at Hunter’s – start with their bubble along with some green shell mussels, then move to the salmon and Chardonnay.

For a perfect view of the vineyard and the famous Marlborough horizon, try La Veranda, at Domaine Georges Michel.

The Pinot Noir exhibits a solid French elegance and the service is relaxed but efficient. The bread and olive oil (Seresin, extra virgin, organic, of course) remind you of Tuscany, but the food is pure New Zealand.

Food can be very good here. This is a country that has to rely on what it produces, so menus are seasonal and innovative of necessity. Piko piko (fern frond), kumara (a sweet potato) and terakihi (fish) are just a few of the mellifluous words that grace menus without intimidating.

If you are uncertain about what to order, you can’t go wrong with the lamb or venison. Save room for the cheese course, which will impress you with the new world take on some classic French flavours – a great way to enjoy that last drop of Pinot Noir.

A perfect Pinot Noir? While it may not exist, New Zealand is one of the better spots to carry on the quest.

When You Go
Planning a trip to New Zealand is remarkably easy – one web site leads to the next, laying out itineraries, recommending everything from accommodation to restaurants.

Here are a few of the best sites for wine-related activities:
http://www.nzwine.com
http://www.cuisine.co.nz
http://www.travel.newzealand.com

 

Gael Arthur ©

---

 

GOOD DRINKING
with Gael Arthur
NEW ZEALAND WINE.

– THE QUEST FOR THE PERFECT PINOT NOIR ©

In North America, say “New Zealand wine” and most people will respond with “Sauvignon Blanc”. It’s been that way since Kevin Judd astonished the wine world with his 1985 Cloudy Bay interpretation of a wine that all too often prompts the “P” descriptions (as in, “green” and “cat”). The now classic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc exudes passion fruit and crisp gooseberry aromas, while delivering enough acidity to stand up to scallops with ginger and lime or steamed green shell mussels with chili and saffron.

Sauvignon Blanc, yes, but there is a lot more to the wine industry of this small antipodean country; the best way to find out is to visit.

The great thing about traveling to a country like New Zealand is that you can enjoy a second summer (particularly attractive on the cold, dark and rainy November day my flight left Vancouver). The country is full of so many things to do that you won’t be bored. The frustrating thing about New Zealand is that with so much to see and do, you will be plotting your return long before you leave.

If wine is your top priority, you need to make some hard decisions – there are now ten different wine regions spread along the full length of two islands and each could several days of concerted tasting.

Grape vines are being planted everywhere as fast as investors can close on the real estate and rip out the fruit trees or move the sheep to higher land. I visited five regions, incorporating plenty of non-wine activities into the formula. Next time, I will limit it to three.

Land given over to grapes here has doubled in just six years, not only to meet the world demand for Sauvignon Blanc but also in a serious attempt to capture the red wine drinker.

While Merlot and Syrah are on the increase, New Zealand has really thrown its heart and soul into the world’s most persnickety grape, Pinot Noir.

Plantings have grown six fold in as many years, with a lot more coming on stream over the next five years.

Few winemakers can cajole the best from Pinot Noir. Even Burgundians will admit that, while a great Pinot Noir is heaven, a bad one is very, very bad. Yet winemakers all over the world aspire to craft the perfect Pinot Noir, all too often when the climate and terroir are less than ideal.

Fortunately for New Zealand, there are several spots that have what it takes in terms of soil, hours of sunlight, diurnal temperature fluctuation (long hot days, followed by cool nights). Too much heat and Pinot Noir can be jammy; too little sunlight and the wine can turn green and vegetal.

To complicate matters, there are countless ways to mess up Pinot Noir in the winery, including the excessive use of new oak, which can overwhelm delicate flavours and aromas.

Waiheke Island, a short ferry ride from Auckland, is too warm to successfully grow Pinot Noir; the focus there is Bordeaux blends.

However, several of the island winemakers meet regularly to see what’s happening in the industry, and my visit to Goldwater Estates coincided with a Pinot Noir tasting.

We compared fifteen wines from New Zealand and Australia, along with a lone Canadian example I had brought along. While some of the wines were unremarkable, none were awful, and a few were excellent.



The Canadian wine passed muster (whew!) and we all agreed that eucalyptus is not attractive in Pinot Noir.

Three of the wines, from Nautilus, were experiments of a sort. In France, the focus is on “terroir” – the soil, the angle of the sun on the vineyard slope – as the determining factor in wine quality. But other factors are important: Grape vines are propagated from cuttings and growers seek out strong vines that exhibit specific characteristics – clones are chosen based on the attributes the viticulturist is seeking.

Nautilus has vines of three particular clones, Pommard 5, Dijon 115 and Dijon 777. They harvested and vinified each clone separately, treating the wines exactly the same, right up to bottling. Not only did we taste three different wines, by combining them, we were able to see just how important diversity can be in making a balanced and interesting wine.

The topic of clones came up frequently during the trip, as part of the arcane formula leading to the perfect Pinot. In a world of numbered clones, the best name has to be the “gumboot clone” (its hiding place when an on-the-ball customs officer confiscated it from an incoming passenger at the airport). Said customs officer, a Mr. Abel, took the cutting, then went through the proper quarantine procedures to authenticate and legitimize the vine, eventually starting his own vineyard. This clone is now one of the most-planted of the twenty-seven clones that make up the New Zealand Pinot Noir palette.

In a good vintage here (barring untimely frost, hail and rain), a skilled winemaker can create a fruit driven Pinot Noir that has depth, finesse and even elegance. The wines are solid, and there is a definite sense that the general quality is improving every year. But it has to be said, New Zealand Pinot Noir is not inexpensive.

Small boutique wineries are charging premium prices to cover high labour and production costs on small (but very expensive) plots of land.


When a frost can knock out half of production overnight, it is no wonder wineries are changing hands, often being purchased with offshore money. Expect some consolidation as the more than four hundred wineries jockey for positions in competitive domestic and international markets.

Since many of the top wines will never leave the country, plan on a lot of cellar door purchases. If you taste something you like, buy it! As your trip progresses, use up your supply at the BYO restaurants (many restaurants are quite happy to open your bottle for you for a nominal service charge, just confirm when you make the reservation).

Start your Pinot Noir tour in Martinborough, near the southern end of the North Island. The first generation of wineries (Ata Rangi, Martinborough, Dry River) has been operating for more than twenty years, but the area still has a wonderful agricultural feel to it. The glitziest place in town is the Martinborough Wine Centre, where you can purchase all your gifts for the folks back home while enjoying a coffee and a snack.

The people are friendly, as Jeff Barber discovered when he and his family moved here five years ago from Victoria, BC, to plant grapes.

“We were overwhelmed by the offers of help and genuinely surprised at how open and willing people have been to help us – there is an attitude here that everyone wants each other to excel in producing quality fruit and wine. It all helps strengthen the Martinborough brand.”

Jeff’s first vintage of Pond Paddock Pinot Noir already has a review from Jancis Robinson, who has been watching New Zealand Pinots for a while now. He is also making Riesling and Chardonnay.

(His friend Roger Parkinson from Nga Waka has a stellar Chardonnay that has terrific concentration and aging potential in the right vintage.)

Before leaving the North Island, it would be foolish to ignore Hawkes Bay, where John Hancock makes marvelous Syrah and Bordeaux blends (along with a bit of Tempranillo, just for fun). Hawkes Bay had always been considered too hot for Pinot Noir, but John has identified some ideal terrain, and his 2002 is stunning.

Heading to the south end of the South Island, Central Otago is walking away with awards far out of proportion to the volume of wine it produces. It’s gorgeous country, and nearby Queenstown is the jumping off spot for all sorts of adventure activities.

 

The famous Milford Sound is close; you can take the easy route and enjoy the view from a boat, or embark on one of countless hikes of varying difficulty. Bring plenty of bug spray…enough said.

For a cheap thrill, the world’s first bungee jumping spot lies between Queenstown and the Cromwell / Bannockburn wine area, home to Mount Difficulty (a great spot for lunch), Felton Road and a personal favourite, Quartz Reef.

The “no-frills” tasting room (in an industrial park) may put some people off, but the reality of winemaking shines brightest in places like this, our host’s hands dark purple from topping up barrels.

 

Central Otago is the home of the famous “Lord of the Rings” backdrops, so bear in mind you may be competing with movie stars for the wines – hence the sometimes breathtaking pricing.

However, if your last wine tour was to Napa or Sonoma, New Zealand touring will seem a real bargain. Throughout New Zealand, food and accommodation are reasonable, delivering value for money.

If you are limited in time and can’t hop from one wine region to the next, concentrate on Marlborough. Here, Pinot Noir vies with Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and a host of white aromatics for attention. Chardonnay is grown in large quantities and is generally well made, but there aren’t any big surprises here.

By contrast, there is no single Pinot Gris here, with everything from the crisp, bone dry Alsatian style to a confusing moderately sweet wine with layers of flavours, not all of them singing in the same key (or even the same tune). Each taste is an adventure.

There are several creditable Rieslings and the Grove Mill Roussanne is delicious (another one you won’t find outside the winery, it was a one-time experiment).

It is the great variety of winemaking styles that makes wine touring and tasting in New Zealand interesting.

Let’s face it, if all wineries made similar wines, you could go to one, taste the range, and then kick back at the nearest restaurant for the rest of the day.

There will undoubtedly be a day or two like that in your travels. Make sure there is enough flexibility in your itinerary to allow for just that – after all, you are on vacation.

If you are on Waiheke Island that day, choose Te Whau, and try some of the small bowl starters (the hot smoked salmon was a favourite).



In Hawkes Bay, start at Sileni at the tasting bar, then ease into its great restaurant. Before leaving, go back to the cellar door and raid the temperature-controlled cheese room for the next day’s picnic.

In Marlborough, a garden and gallery will go along with your wine and food at Hunter’s – start with their bubble along with some green shell mussels, then move to the salmon and Chardonnay.

For a perfect view of the vineyard and the famous Marlborough horizon, try La Veranda, at Domaine Georges Michel.

The Pinot Noir exhibits a solid French elegance and the service is relaxed but efficient. The bread and olive oil (Seresin, extra virgin, organic, of course) remind you of Tuscany, but the food is pure New Zealand.

Food can be very good here. This is a country that has to rely on what it produces, so menus are seasonal and innovative of necessity. Piko piko (fern frond), kumara (a sweet potato) and terakihi (fish) are just a few of the mellifluous words that grace menus without intimidating.

If you are uncertain about what to order, you can’t go wrong with the lamb or venison. Save room for the cheese course, which will impress you with the new world take on some classic French flavours – a great way to enjoy that last drop of Pinot Noir.

A perfect Pinot Noir? While it may not exist, New Zealand is one of the better spots to carry on the quest.

When You Go
Planning a trip to New Zealand is remarkably easy – one web site leads to the next, laying out itineraries, recommending everything from accommodation to restaurants.

Here are a few of the best sites for wine-related activities:
http://www.nzwine.com
http://www.cuisine.co.nz
http://www.travel.newzealand.com

 

Gael Arthur ©

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