BOOKMARK
	Winter 2007

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SCOTLAND IN MINIATURE© USING FERRIES AND SINGLE TRACK ROADS TO CAPTURE THE COUNTRY IN A NUTSHELL
MacBrayne's ships seemed omnipresent and every schoolboy new the rhyme: “The Lord owns the earth and all it contains, except the Western Isles and that is MacBraynes' Now, years later, I decided to make a short journey that would capture a little of what was on offer.

The Highlands and Islands are beautiful and when you take the road to the isles you explore them to best effect if you use the ferries operated by “Caledonian MacBrayne.”
I knew of MacBraynes ships as a boy back in the days when pleasure steamers brought tourists to holiday resorts on the River Clyde. That was before aircraft whisked people off to Florida or the Spanish Costas.

To our young eyes the MacBraynes ships seemed to offer exotic travel. They sailed further and served a multitude of little ports in the West of Scotland and on the mainland their transport net was cast wide with a fleet of buses in distinctive red and green colours.

The company were omnipresent and every schoolboy new the rhyme: “The Lord owns the earth and all it contains, except the Western Isles and that is MacBraynes'


Now, years later, I decided to make a short journey that would capture a little of what was on offer.

Morning Departure.

At seven thirty on an August morning with the grey skies not yet living up to the forecast of a better day to come I crossed the border from England on my little blue Honda motorbike.

We headed west and beyond the trees saw the Lowland hills rising in the distance.

I settled down to the journey with the bike purring along at about 45 mph. Ahead I saw what looked like a black cloak laying on the ground, as I approached it turned into a dozen black crows that rose into the air from some fresh road kill.

The weak morning sun began to shine on the sleepy little villages and we were soon passing by fields of golden corn. There were large estates and farms where it looked as though the sheep had been placed out as though in a child’s toy.

Being on a motor bike and not cocooned in a car, you felt you were part of it. There was time even to appreciate even the shape of the trees. They did not flash by in a blur.

My enthusiasm for my recently acquired toy, the GPS, satellite navigation system was growing.
I found that you could launch yourself into what might be a maze of little minor roads on the map and yet come out heading for your chosen destination with a female voice in your ear telling you what to do, (a familiar situation!)

When heading towards Peebles, I got on to the A72. It was quite scenic but too many other vehicles tried to share it so for I turned off on to a lesser road that ran past farms, woods and a disused railway line.

A shining river and festival at Innerleithan Castle were the rewards. The peaceful interlude added little time to the overall journey and the GPS set the blue bike unerringly in the right direction with us eventually passing signs declaring the ‘tourist route’ and welcoming us to East Ayrshire.

 

I saw the mountains of Arran long before reaching the ferry at Ardrossan and the peak of Goatfell, (2866ft), was in well in sight before I could smell the tang of the sea air. .

When you come to buy your ticket you realise just how extensive the network of ferries is. There are 26 combinations to choose from and the best value is to be had by getting a Hopscotch pass that enables you to pay for crossings in advance at a reduced rate.

The MacBraynes ferry for the 55 minute crossing of the Clyde, was a large one and more like the big cross-channel ships to France so I was able to have a meal on board before going out on deck to watch our approach into Brodick Bay

The Island.

On Arran you can circumnavigate the island on the A841 road and what contrasts it offers.
To the south I found peaceful sandy bays and even palm trees growing in the warm climate of the gulf stream.

Beyond them lush green fields the Clyde Estuary opened out and the vista included the islands of Pladda and Ailsa Craig .

The latter known for many years as the source of granite curling stones, (used in the 'roarin game' to great effect by the Scottish Ladies team at the last Olympics in a closely fought final with Canada.)

Close by Seal Shore at the Kildonan Hotel, Monday night was music night. "Bring an instrument" the poster said or "just sit and listen."

But it was afternoon so I contented myself with supping a beer and listening to the seabirds as I gazed out to sea through sculpted 'standing stones. '

These works of art fitted well and I suppose that they were inspired by ancient ones on Machrie Moor. To reach these you follow the road half the way round the other side of the island.

The road becomes single track in places and after dipping down Lagg you climb up and drive through wilder country. On one side purple heather and on the other, across the Kilbrannan Sound, the Mull Of Kintyre, made famous in Paul McCartneys 1977 number 1 hit single, (From there, you can, on a clear day see the northern tip of Ireland.)

If you decide to visit the Standing Stones at Machrie Moor be sure to wear a pair of boots. The mile long trek across moor is easy and exhilarating, but it can be a bit squelchy under foot.

Although the stone circles date from around 1800 to 1600 BC during the Bronze Age period, there is evidence to suggest a much earlier use of the site. The whole moorland is rich in the remains of early man, from hut circles to chambered cairns and solitary standing stones.

While you can pick up excellent accommodation guides at the ferry terminal before you cross to Arran, the island is popular and you would be well advised to book in advance.

I stayed at a very comfortable Bed & Breakfast place, and was made most welcome by John and Janet Baraclough and friendly sheepdog.

Their home is a modern bungalow in Strathwillan with a view over Brodick Bay and as I watched the evening ferry sail for the mainland I began to feel part of island life.

The next day I set out north passing Brodrick Castle with its gardens. There were the pleasant coastal village of Corrie and Sannox before the A841 took us inland and we rode up into dramatic, rain lashed, mountain scenery. Then down we went towards Lochranza and the ferry for the 30 minute crossing to Cloanig in Kintyre.

From the ship I spotted Skipness Castle on the shoreline. It lies on a side road 2 miles from Claonaig and it proved to be well worth the short detour. You pass some pleasant little cottages and finding white horses in the castle grounds helped to add to the timeless atmosphere. The Castle standing as it does on the east side of the Kintyre Peninsula has wonderful views over to the Isle of Arran.

The first construction was in the early 1200s, with many later additions before it was eventually abandoned in the 17th century.

Heading onwards just a few miles up the road towards Tarbert I skirted the shores of West Loch Tarbert and at Kennacraig saw yet another of MacBraynes ferries making ready to sail out to the Island of Islay but that was not on my route so I carried on and entered the little town of Tarbert.

Kintyre is a stunning part of Scotland, and a good way to see all the area has to offer is to use Tarbert as your holiday base. From there you can reach all the islands and the east and west coasts of Kintyre.

Tarbert, (not to be confused with Tarbert on the Island of Harris) has a fishing fleet based at the town's working quay, and also at the West Loch Tarbert. The vessels fish not only in the waters of Loch Fyne but also further around the peninsula of Kintyre towards the islands of Islay and Jura, sometimes as far North as Egg, Muck and Mull.


It seemed strange to be amid shops again and I visited a bakers' to get a Scots pie to munch on while I waited on the ferry that would take me accross Loch Fyne to Portavadie.

We were in popular boating waters now and an Italian yacht scudded by running before the wind with full sails.

The ferry over to Portavadie was a small affair. On the other side I negotiated sheep wandering on the road and then as I crested the hill there was a sudden and dramatic change of scenery.

We were in a land of mountain and trees. I was back in my native part of Argyll, where the first National Forest Park in the UK was established in 1935.

The forest itself is much older, but now commercially viable pine trees cover much of the landscape. Through them you catch glimpses of a wonderful scenery and there are places that you feel compelled to stop and drink it in the view. I would certainly rate the outlook over the Kyles of Bute from the A8003 very highly indeed. It is a sparsly populated area. (You can learn more on: http://web.ukonline.co.uk/tighnaglais/)

A few miles further on and I was able to turn off onto a single track road that leads through the glens, over the top of the Cowal Peninsula and to the end of the main part of my journey. At Dunoon I would reach the River Clyde and catch the boat accross the water for the final leg of the trip home

On the shore a familiar rock in the shape of a crow seemed to have been freshly repainted, it is a tradition that I know goes back over a hundred years. Looking at it I had a touch of deja vu. I had seen crows lift off the road at the start of my journey but this old friend stayed firmly rooted to the shore and the past. I wonder if in another hundred years it will be wearing a smart coat of paint.

Report and Pictures by Allan Rogers

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INFORMATION:

Map and Itinerary: The Route

Comprehensive guide to Arran: http://www.scotland-inverness.co.uk/arran.htm

Caladonian MacBrayne Ferries. http://www.calmac.co.uk

Arran Brochure request http://www.ayrshire-arran.com/

Bed & Breakfast accommodation on Arran

Janet & John Baraclough,
Crimond,
Strathwhillan,
Brodick ,
Isle of Arran

Tel. 01770 303912
email:mailto:janet.and.john@zetnet.co.uk

 

Wandering with a Honda. Accessories include satellite navigation, clock, compass and map topped cycle box full of biscuits and cool drinks.

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The Route

Itnerary and Map. The planned route took me through the Borders to the Clyde Coast. At Ardrossan I used the ferry to Arran. ( claimed to be a “Scotland in miniature.”) On the far side of the island there was another ferry over to the Kintyre Peninsula, then a drive up to Tarbert and then the ferry to Portavadie. From there I followed the road that overlooks the beautiful 'Kyles of Bute' before tackling the single track road that leads through the forests of Cowal towards Dunoon where I boarded a final ferry to sail back across the Clyde Estuary.

Image produced from the Ordnance Survey Get-a-map service. Image reproduced with kind permission of Ordnance Survey and Ordnance Survey of Northern Ireland.