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WORLDROVER
GUIDES
Towns & Nude Beaches
COMFORT FOOD
With Gael Arthur. ©This is a great dish for a dinner party, but don’t forget to make extra to freeze, so there is always some emergency comfort food in the freezer. When February arrives, the days are getting longer and brighter, but winter hibernation is still very much a part of the mindset in terms of cooking. Big hearty soups, crusty bread slathered with butter, roasted root vegetables – all these things help to get us through the weeks until the snowdrops and crocuses herald spring.
Simplicity is the key to winter fare, food simmering on the stove bringing almost as much solace as the meal itself. Here are a couple of simple ideas that are also easy on the budget, which may still be reeling from the December holiday expenditures.
Leek and Potato Soup.
3 leeks
olive oil
1 litre stock, chicken, beef or vegetable (water works as well)
4 large potatoes
Bay leaf
Salt and pepper to tasteTrim tops and damaged outer leaves, but leave lots of the green. Clean leeks thoroughly (starting about 2 centimetres from the base, slice through the middle up to the top of the leek, then soak in cold water). Chop into small slices – up to one centimetre in thickness – and rinse again (leeks generally contain a lot of grit).
Heat olive oil in a large Dutch oven, then toss in leeks, stirring occasionally – leeks will sweat slowly. Keep heat under control, as you don’t want to brown the leeks, just soften them.
Meanwhile, peel potatoes and cut into cubes – the smaller the cubes, the sooner the soup will be ready. Once leeks are translucent, add chicken stock (preferably warmed, but not essential), and potatoes. Cook over medium heat. Correct seasoning (how much salt will depend on the type of stock you have used).
When potatoes are soft, remove bay leaf and puree soup (most easily accomplished with a hand held mixer right in the pot).
To dress up this soup, a small amount of sour cream can be swirled on the top of each bowl, accompanies by chervil or Italian parsley to brighten it up.
Serve with lots of bread.
Osso Buco (adapted from The Umberto Menghi Cookbook, Talonbooks, 1982)
This is a great dish for a dinner party, but don’t forget to make extra to freeze, so there is always some emergency comfort food in the freezer. This recipe serves six.
Pre-heat oven to 350F or 180C
6 meaty veal shin bones
salt and pepper to taste
50g flour50ml olive oil
Season veal with salt and pepper. Dip in flour (cover all sides), then shake off excess. Sauté veal on all sides in hot oil in a large skillet until brown to seal in the juices. Place veal in a casserole dish just big enough to contain the meat (Important: make sure it is deep, so the sauce will fit in as well.)
Sauce:
5ml each of olive oil and butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
250 ml dry red wine
1 large (900ml) can of peeled Italian tomatoes, finely chopped, or equivalent in fresh tomatoes, including their liquid
5g brown sugar (optional)
salt and pepper to tasteIn another skillet, sauté onion in oil and butter until translucent. Add carrot celery and garlic and sauté on medium heat for 5 – 10 minutes. Add wine, tomatoes and their liquid and brown sugar and stir well. Season with salt and pepper.
Cover veal with sauce and put casserole dish, covered, in pre-heated oven and bake for 90 minutes. Remove the lid for the last half hour.
Gremolata:
10g lemon peel. Grated
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
20g fresh parsley, finely choppedMix the three ingredients in a small bowl.
Serve osso buco on heated plates with orzo. Sprinkle a bit of gremolata on top.