GAEL ARTHUR ON

THE DAYS OF WINE AND ROSÉ 
and The Rieslings of Alsace

France – the mere word conjures up visions of spectacular     meals with impeccable wines.

 For those of us obsessed with wine and food, it is the sublime marriage of wine and food in France that makes a journey to one of the wine regions so intriguing.  


It doesn’t really matter whether the wine or the food came first; suffice to say that they belong together.  Each wine region of France has its own identity and each is worthy of serious exploration.

 So, take Alsace.  It’s a wonderful spot, with the questionable honour of having been tossed back and forth between the French and the Germans more than once – it changed hands four times between 1870 and 1880, then another three times in the 20^th century.  

The result is a strong provincial identity, complete with an unusual dialect spoken amongst the locals (heard amongst friends in the bar over a glass of marc, the distilled product produced from wine pomace). 


 Setting out to explore the hillside towns with names as charming as they are difficult for a non-native to pronounce correctly (is Riquewihr with a “w” as in water or a v” as in vat?) requires a bit of planning, priorities firmly established.  

The charming medieval towns with half-timbered houses adorned with enticing “Winstub” signs (wine tasting) offer everything from architecture to history, but try not to get caught up in the tourist element.  Indeed, the word “kitsch” comes to mind as the images of storks sitting on bell towers decorate every type of souvenir.  

Go for the practical, and pick up a few pieces of the traditional pottery, or the lovely green tinted long stemmed crystal wine glasses.  Neither is cheap, but the design and quality will reward you when you are back home, reminding you of fine food and drink on your trip.  

While terroir is important in Alsatian wines, the label on the bottle won’t help you here (all right, it may not help in Burgundy or Bordeaux either, but in those regions, it’s a starting point).  

Other than Edelzwicker (a blend of any number of the ten or so white grapes that grace the Vosges slopes), wines are labeled by their individual grape varietal, rather than by the plot of land from which they hail. 

 Most producers seem to opt for the generalist approach, each producing six or eight different wines, so a visit to a winery can get tricky.  Three is the generally accepted number of wines to taste, although, depending on your conversation with your host (and, depending on whether or not you hit it off), you may get to sample more. 

 Choose wisely, trying to determine if the producer in question has any wines of which he is particularly proud.   Don’t automatically eschew the simple and much maligned Sylvaner, as it can be heavenly if well made.  

While there is red wine – Pinot Noir – grown in small quantities in Alsace, it is more of a curiosity, leaning towards the light and thin range of that noble grape.   

The Rieslings of Alsace are perfectly suited for fresh water fish, like trout (a smoked trout tart would suit nicely). Gewürztraminer from this thin strip of land - 120 km long and only 4 kilometers across at its widest – serves to remind all the imposters that this wine is not first and foremost sweet.  

Above all, it is aromatic and complex, offering up its most delicate flavours and aromas when slightly warmer than standard white wine serving temperatures.  (Only a cretin would think of serving it straight out of the refrigerator and, if waiter has the audacity to bring an ice bucket along with the bottle, you are perfectly within your rights to waive it away without deigning to speak to the poor sod.)  While North Americans automatically pair Gewürztraminer with turkey, it is well suited for numerous other dishes, including Asian cuisine, where the spicy character is a perfect foil to the complex flavour combination of Chinese, even Sichuan tables.

 One of the best learning experiences in terms of winemaking style and flavour development as it relates to sugar can be gained in Alsace.  Take a bone dry Gewürztraminer or Riesling, then compare it to the same grape, turned into s a Vendage Tardive – a late harvest wine, where the grapes have been left on the vine to develop higher sugar levels (think of the German Spätlese / Auslese categories).  

An even higher level of sugar is reached before picking the SGN grapes (Sélection Grains Nobles), which often have been affected by Botrytis as well.  A mediocre SGN will be sweet first and foremost, but a well-crafted example will have amazing complexity of aroma and flavour, with acidity offering a strong backbone for the residual sugar. 

 These wines can age well, if properly stored.  Watch out for the alcohol content on these “dessert” wines – a three sample limit is probably a good idea, especially for those contemplating driving.

 One more thing – even if you are overloaded on your baggage and the thought of carrying another bottle home is beyond you – buy one.  Chances are you will be able to use a dry wine as an aperitif wine before dinner one evening in your hotel if you really can’t face carrying it home.  

The late harvest wines often come in half bottles, which are easy tuck into your carry on luggage.  The selection of Alsace wines outside of France tends to be limited, so if you find a wine you like, buy it!  (In the United States, you may have trouble finding more than two or three Alsatian wines, and they will generally be the mass produced commercial products; at date of writing, Canada’s British Columbia liquor stores offer more than 20 choices, one of the best selections in years).

 Finally, make sure you leave time to visit the incredible Musée d’Underlinden in Colmar, worth the visit for more than the magnificent Grünewald altarpiece.

 

A few web sites to check out while planning your trip:

 

Wines of Alsace:  http://www.civa.fr 

General tourism:  http://www.tourisme-alsace.com 

     http://www.alsace-info.com 

     http://users.skynet.be/alsace-terroir/ 

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