A JOURNEY ALONG
THE ST LAWRENCE
BY GAEL ARTHUR ©
The long, thin islands in the St Lawrence are ideal for getting away from it all. On Ile aux Lièvres (Hare Island) the wildlife consists of more birds and seals than hares.
People smile when they mention Quebec City – they are thinking, no doubt, of the venerable Château Frontenac, the cobbled streets with shops selling wonderful things, the food, the street entertainment and the European feel of the place.
It’s a perfect introduction to the culture and history that is Canada’s French heritage, but after a few days, the river calls: It’s time to head out towards the mouth of the St Lawrence.
Heading east from Quebec City, we see that bridges are replaced by ferries and a decision must be made – Charlevoix, Saguenay and Tadoussac on the north shore, or the Bas-St Laurent out towards the Gaspé peninsula on the south shore.
It’s the southern route this trip, with a focus on nature, sprinkled with healthy servings of great food.
The long, thin islands in the St Lawrence are ideal for getting away from it all. On Ile aux Lièvres (Hare Island) the wildlife consists of more birds and seals than hares.
The island belongs to a not-for-profit society committed to preservation of the birds that nest there, including Eider ducks.
Once the ducks have abandoned their nests, the collected down feathers provide a healthy income to help the foundation maintain its operations.
More than 40 km of trails traverse the island, with access tightly controlled – rarely are more than 50 people found here at one time.
The high season double room rate of about $150 (Canadian dollars) per person includes three excellent meals a day. It’s a nature reserve, so there is nothing to buy and nothing to do except relax, hike, walk along the beach and appreciate the beauty of the island and the river.
Even in the heat of summer, the cool breeze off the water refreshes and keeps the worst of the bugs away.
Farther east, another island welcomes us – Ile Verte is almost bustling by comparison, with its 30 permanent residents (many more in the summer, when vacation homes are available for short and long-term rental).
The postcard sunset at the oldest lighthouse on the St Lawrence (1809) augurs in a lovely stay on this serene island, where keen eyes scanning the horizon may spot sea birds, seals, and the occasional whale.
For those keen to see whales, the best bet is an excursion, where the boats head out to sight the whales as they feed – they move around a lot and the many tour companies radio each other to make sure every one sees something.
A three-hour tour in the relative comfort of a large boat such as those offered by Croisières AML is ideal for the older person – for the more adventurous, the view from the Zodiacs is definitely superior. In this part of the river, there are 13 different species (both toothed and baleen), including the ever-popular beluga.
Spotting a white beluga with a little grey baby hovering nearby is a magical moment, even in the company of a flotilla of boats full of camera-laden tourists.
While the islands provide the perfect escape to nature, the land along the river offers a welcoming look at rural life.
Small towns are easy to spot from a distance by their church spires and the layout ofeach town gives a window on its past. The village of Cabano was a native site for thousands of years, perched on the edge of Lake Témiscouata.
The railway has long since stopped, but a clever conversion of the line to a 134-km bike and walking trail has helped this town develop a strong tourism industry to supplement the forestry industry.
Every meal in Quebec is excellent - the French heritage means that attention is paid to the little details. We don’t have pancakes at breakfast, we have crêpes – and with the ubiquitous maple syrup, it is a divine inspiration.
For serious food lovers, the highlight of the region has to be dinner at the Auberge du Chemin Faisant in Cabano, where Hugues Massey creates shockingly good food. A Michelin-starred restaurant in France would do well to serve the fare offered in this intimate no-attitude room – and the price for a four or five course meal is considerably less than a single main course in Toronto or Vancouver, let alone London or Paris. This is world-class cuisine.
There is a single caveat worth noting when it comes to visiting the St Lawrence River region in late August – it is already starting to cool off, the birds are heading south, and things are winding down.
Once the snow flies, it’s an entirely different country – also worth visiting, but with a different focus – pack that down-filled jacket and get ready for ice fishing and snowmobiling!Report by Gael Arthur
Useful web sites:
Ile aux Lièvres:www.duvetnor.com
Ile Verte accommodation: www.ileverte.net/maisonsduphare
Food: Auberge du Chemin Faisant: www.cheminfaisant.qc.ca
Whale watching: www.croisieresaml.com
