Gael Arthur finds... ELEGANT EATING IN EDINBURGH © Laugh if you will, but the food in Scotland can be sublime, and there is no question about the service. Knowledgeable serving staff treat you like royalty. Er, no, I didn't ask for the haggis
		The Secret Garden at The Witchery

The Scots may have invented the modern world as Arthur Herman postulates, but I am not sure many would give them credit for elegant cuisine or even think to put the words Scottish and gastronomy in the same sentence.
Certainly the oat cakes are the best in the world - if you happen to like oatcakes - and a piece of shortbread after a nice meal is close to perfection, but the litany slows rapidly after that.

While French and Italian cuisine immediately create images of a three or five course meal of classic dishes, it's a different process for Scottish fare.

Perhaps a brief comment on the traditional Scottish breakfast will get the gastric juices flowing. The real thing will either send you back to bed with the newspapers or a good mystery (on a cold gloomy day) or prepare you for a long walk through the misty highlands.

With a full day of seeing Edinburgh ahead of me, I hit the proverbial jackpot at The Howard, Edinburgh's "discreet" hotel in the elegant Georgian New Town.

This hotel was my idea of heaven from the moment I opened the unassuming door with its simple brass sign. The trolley that brought my breakfast made me seriously consider inviting three or four friends over to join me.

I eschewed the blood pudding, but felt obligated to have a kipper, in deference to all the Edwardian novels that feature them so prominently, secure in the knowledge that I would be unlikely to find such a kipper back in Canada. Bacon, sausages, eggs, toast, croissants, scones, fruit, juice, coffee (large insulated pot). Thankfully, it was on this day that the noon meal was scheduled as a quick pub lunch, where a bowl of crab soup and a piece of fresh bread would more than suffice. (While we are talking about pub lunches, not a thing wrong with them for good hearty fare, as long as you make sure they actually prepare the meals on site, rather than offer reheated canteen food. My best experiences were with the curries - the Scots went to India as well, you know.)

For a day when breakfast consists of a quick coffee and pastry, the place to lunch happily shares its address with one of the Do Not Miss attractions, the Museum of Scotland, a place I could spend days exploring.

The Tower Restaurant is located on the top floor of the museum, with its edgy design (love the chairs) quickly giving way to classic elegant service.

I knew we were in the right place when a glass of champagne was offered (and gratefully accepted) as we took a much needed break from cramming centuries of Scottish history into nooks and crannies of the brain.

While at first worried I might be distracted by a fabulous view (a table on the lovely little terrace looking across to the castle would be my choice on a sunny spring day), there was no danger once the food arrived.

The menu serves to remind the visitor of the prime ingredients that come from Scotland, from Aberdeen Angus beef to Shetland salmon; the description of each dish shows the distinctive approach to the food. Char grilled vegetable terrine with goats cheese sorbet and basil oil sounded odd, but it worked brilliantly.

For the last impression of eating in Edinburgh, we chose The Witchery, along the Royal Mile, just below the castle gates. The building was built in the late 16th century, so walking down the narrow path and through the doors is like stepping through time.

The furnishings bring to mind the word sumptuous; crystal on the tables, the best linens, and a leather bound wine list that makes for serious reading.

My dining partner was spared from listening to the oohs and ahhs of a good selection of both Burgundies and Bordeaux only by the time constraint of a concert at the Usher Hall.

We are taking advantage of the fabulous pre-theatre supper, a well-priced meal in smaller proportions. Seated in the Secret Garden, this is the epitome of "fine dining". The food is as appealing visually as it is on the palate and the proportions of the two courses and excellent service leave time for a pudding - a selection of three crème brulée (small enough that it doesn't even seem excessive), a quick espresso, and off to the theatre. Life is good.

INFORMATION

For recipes from The Tower and The Witchery, check out This month's Bon Appetite.

The Howard: http://www.thehoward.com

Tower Restaurant: http://www.tower-restaurant.com

The Witchery: http://www.thewitchery.com